Wines of Maremma (Tuscany)

Vacations involving visits to wineries and wine shops are almost Borges-like: did we go to the winery because we were on vacation in that place, or did we go to that place on vacation because there was that winery? Either way, this year it was Maremma’s turn.

It’s important to preface that my experience with Tuscan wines was quite modest: some Chianti, a decent knowledge of Brunello, and the Super Tuscans that are essential to taste. Beyond that, there was a lot of ignorance. I expected full-bodied reds and saline, Mediterranean whites, even easy-going ones.

Somehow, my expectations proved correct, but there were also surprises, mostly pleasant ones. Here’s an overview of what I tasted and what I can recommend.

The Bubbles

There are few bubbles in Tuscany. Of the three I tasted, two convinced me and the other did not. Let’s start with the best two.

Metodo Classico Extra Brut – Fertuna

• Aroma: Yeast, apple, and olive oil.
• Palate: Nice acidity with a thick but powerful perlage. A rather arrogant classic method with excellent acidity and fruit concentration. In the mouth, the pear is aggressive but develops lemon peel notes at the finish.
• General Impression: A classic method with impressive structure and finish.

Liseo Spumante Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero – Petricci e Del Pianta

• Aroma: Fresh, verbena, and lemon basil.
• Palate: Weak perlage that penalizes the wine but beautiful freshness and good persistence.
• General Impression: A wine with remarkable freshness and good persistence, despite the weak perlage. In Bolgheri, we also tasted a sparkling wine whose producer I couldn’t identify. It did not convince us.

Demetra

• Aroma: Notes of basil and lemon.
• Palate: Classic method of beautiful freshness. Fine and not numerous perlage, similar to Moscato. The taste is too sweet for our liking.
• General Impression: A fresh classic method, but with aromas similar to Moscato, making it too sweet for those who prefer less sweetness.

The Rosés

Rosés have a hard time with me: I don’t care for them at all. Understandably, there are many in Tuscany, where red grapes dominate. My only interaction with a local rosé was quite negative.

Alìe Rosé Toscana – Tenuta Ammiraglia

• Aroma: Big babol, very sugary strawberry candy, rose petals.
• Palate: Artificial, low acidity.
• General Impression: A wine that is excessively sugary and artificial, with little acidity. What a bore.

The Whites

For whites, I expected fresh, saline, even easy-going wines. Naturally, I had Vermentino in mind. However, reality surprised me: I tasted many structured and characterful Vermentinos. While not considering a crowd-pleasing wine inherently inferior or irrelevant (everything has its place and moment), this unexpected richness pleased me.

I also encountered Viognier, about which I knew very little aside from the fact that my scant experiences with Condrieu did not excite me. Here, too, the surprise was positive: a truly interesting, closed grape. It can be a fascinating structured wine or simply an introvert not to linger over. In this sense, it reminded me of Macabeo. Certainly worth exploring further.

Toscana Vermentino – La Spinetta

• Palate: Soft, with little fruit density. Shows returns of yellow peach, mango, pineapple, and magnolia flowers.
• General Impression: Pleasant but a bit flat.

Solosole Vermentino – Poggio Al Tesoro

• Palate: Beautifully integrated, with notes of rock and white flowers. Nice fruit density and a sculpted, tonic body.
• Finish: All about pink grapefruit, bitter and assertive.
• General Impression: A well-integrated Vermentino with a decided, bitter finish, offering nice structure and complexity.

Galant Vermentino – Bicocchi

• Aroma: Lemon, frying oil, and lavender.
• Palate: Excellent acidity well integrated into the fruit, felt with a murmur on the lips. Beautiful salinity at the finish. In the mouth, you sense the lavender flower and a certain fleshiness.
• General Impression: Highly satisfying.

Viognier 2019 – Rocca di Montemassi ***

• Bottle
• Pairing: Pici cacio e pepe
• Color: Straw yellow
• Aroma: Yellow flowers, preserved lemons, butter, hay. The nose is quite closed but not poor, simply composed and deep.
• Palate: Good fruit concentration, with a solid body stabilized by the wood, perfectly integrated, and the depth of the aromas. The acidity is medium and appears late, almost out of nowhere, a sort of phantom acidity. The palate shows a ripe white melon that transforms into a bitter and citrusy finish, probably grapefruit, due to the dominance of bitterness. Saline and flavorful to the end, closing the sip with elegance. At times, it reminded me the Verdejo.
• General Impression: A noble wine.
• Personal Comment: My first real approach to Viognier was a success, I would say. A wine that combines elegance and depth, with perfect integration of the wood and a citrusy and flavorful finish that leaves a lasting impression.

Solo Viognier – Podere Ranieri

• General Impression: Elegant but quite flat, with a savory finish that at least enriches its profile.

Filemone Vermentino 2021 – La Fralluca

• Bottle
• Pairing: Pasta al pesto
• Color: Pale straw yellow
• Aroma: White peach, warm and crushed rock, white melon. The nose is expressive and vertical, immediately attractive.
• Palate: The mouth surprises with an almost silky and compact body. The fruit is concentrated and the quality of the grapes evident. Aromas of ripe white peach and excellent acidity tickle the tongue, then end with a vibration on the lips. The finish has the flesh of a nectarine and evolves into a refreshing lime zest that cleans the palate. The discreet savoriness and excellent salinity balance the body and slightly excessive alcohol, which nonetheless works because the wine’s sensuality lies in the contrast between the fresh Vermentino and an unexpected power. Really well thought out. Added some severity to the pesto.
• General Impression: A well-balanced Vermentino, with complexity and depth that make it an interesting pairing even for simpler dishes like pasta al pesto.

L’Isoletta Vermentino – Russo

• Aroma: Almost candied on the nose.
• Palate: Too much fruit and roundness, lacking acidity. Residual sugar reminiscent of some Greek Malvasias drunk in taverns.
• General Impression: A wine too fruity and round, lacking acidity.

Poggio Argentato Bianco 2022 – Fattoria le Pupille

• Bottle
• Color: Intense straw yellow
• Aroma: Tomato leaf, green pepper, marjoram, papaya. Extremely attractive nose, with Sauvignon in the foreground (it’s a blend) and perhaps not much else.
• Palate: Compact, almost silky body. Gentle acidity grows slightly. In the mouth, tropical notes and ripe white peach emerge, giving aromatic richness to a wine with good fruit concentration. The finish has all the bitterness of grapefruit, ending with a strong bang that reverberates for a long time. The intense salinity completes the sip of a good wine, not excellent, but certainly ready to provide fun and immediate pleasure.
• General Impression: A white with an attractive nose and good fruit concentration, perfect for those seeking an immediately captivating and aromatic wine.

The Reds

The reds, the reason why we talk about wine in Tuscany. The general impression, at least regarding Maremma wines, is that they are stacked. I can’t find a more fitting adjective: profiles certainly do not lack, nor the ambition of the winemakers. However, the final result is pleasantly confusing in the best instances and somewhat unsubstantial in the worst ones.

Villese – Il Campaccio 2009 – Della Villa

• Bottle
• Pairing: Pasta al ragù
• Color: Ruby red with garnet reflections
• Aroma: Blueberry, pepper, chocolate, iron, dried plums, strawberries. Fresh despite showing clear signs of evolution.
• Palate: Sandy tannins with a good grip, but not excessive. Good fruit concentration and fantastic freshness considering the age, thanks to solid acidity. The palate shows the ripe and fleshy fruit of Sangiovese. Rich but also easy to drink. After a while, the evolved notes seemed almost macerated, which didn’t thrill me, but the finish of dried plums with a spicy background was really pleasant. It was a good companion for the evening and the pasta.
• General Impression: A wine that combines evolution and freshness, making it a great choice to accompany flavorful dishes like pasta al ragù.

Armonia di Moreta 2019 – Bicocchi

• Bottle
• Pairing: Pici all’aglione
• Color: Ruby red with garnet reflections
• Aroma: Vinoso, raspberries, chocolate, black pepper, blackberry. The vinous character is the main problem with this wine, otherwise the palate would be quite interesting.
• Palate: There’s a lot of juiciness, solid acidity, and assertive sandy tannins that dry the mouth perfectly. In what is perhaps a classic Sangiovese style, the austere palate gives way to small berry fruit, allowing chocolate and leather to emerge. The finish is of medium length and quite bitter, with pepper notes. Not a great wine but a decent companion for the evening, unfortunately sometimes it seemed really rushed.
• General Impression: Certainly among the least exciting wines tasted.

Maremma Toscana 2019 – Rocca di Montemassi ***

• Bottle
• Pairing: Beef steak with zucchini
• Color: Intense ruby red
• Aroma: Black currant, black plums, coffee. The nose is already juicy, dense, and almost dark, but also fruity and lively. This contrast between composed elegance and joyful freshness makes the wine so exciting.
• Palate: Lively notes of dried violets, licorice, and spices cross the tongue, supported by good acidity. The body is medium-full and balances the powerful and grainy tannins that dry the mouth with precision. The finish shows violets and black plum jam, in a final burst of fresh and rich life.
• General Impression: A lively and playful wine, and playing is a serious matter. Like the Viognier from Rocca di Montemassi, one of the best wines tasted.

Cabernet Franc (Filare 18) 2019 – Casadei **

• Aroma: Nice wood, blackberries, black currant, vegetal, black plums.
• Palate: Super tannins that cover the whole mouth. Very aromatic palate with notes of juniper berries and pepper. Excellent fruit concentration. Powerful in its unripe blackberry finish. Nice acidity.
• General Impression: A very determined and complete wine.

Campo Alle Rondini Rosso – Casa Ulivino

• Aroma: Green Sangiovese.
• Palate: Vinoso, with notes of pomegranate juice.
• General Impression: Well described by the waitress, but unfortunately bio-boring, with poverty disguised as essentiality. Truly a forgettable experience.

Oci Ciornie – Tenuta Dodici 2016 – La Madonna

• Bottle
• Pairing: Pici al ragù
• Color: Intense ruby red
• Aroma: Black cherry, plum, tobacco. A wine that, the more it opens, the gentler and more complex it becomes. Initially seems like a fruit bomb, but it is much more. It has the gentleness of tobacco, adding a serious but also light note.
• Palate: In the mouth, warm pepper aromas mix with strong, sandy tannins that wrap the mouth. The acidity is not significant, and the transition to a dried plum and blackberry finish is seamless. The finish is not particularly long but dry and invites another sip.
• General Impression: A wine of substance that reveals its complexity little by little. Good with the pici al ragù, whose sweetness enhanced the wine’s seriousness.

Senziente – Podere Ranieri

• Aroma: Hints of cinnamon and dried red fruits.
• Color: Garnet with the fragile color of Pinot Noir.
• Palate: Present tannin but well integrated into a mosaic of flavors.
• General Impression: Truly a great wine, evolved and complex.

The wines of Podere Ranieri were tasted during a visit to the winery.

Solo Cabernet Sauvignon – Podere Ranieri **

• Aroma: Raspberries, plums, and blackberries.
• Palate: Lots of pulp, with determined tannins that create the usual hole in the mouth of Cabernet Sauvignon. Nice acidity that gives immediacy to the whole.
• General Impression: Very outgoing, intense and full-bodied, but never intrusive.

Sassabruna Maremma Toscana – Rocca di Montemassi 2021

• Bottle
• Pairing: Sausage and hamburger
• Color: Ruby red
• Aroma: Black cherry, cinnamon, smoke, asphalt. Quite immediate on the nose and then on the palate, although the evolution of smoky and rosemary aromas deserves attention.
• Palate: Medium, grainy tannins around the mouth and excellent acidity. The finish is simple but powerful, with blackberries in the foreground and then plums, with a powdery texture.
• General Impression: A generally simple wine, but for a really affordable price offers a couple of well-done and interesting profiles.

Syrah Toscana – Renis

• Color: Almost black ruby red
• Aroma: Red currant, pepper, blackberry
• Palate: Very determined body, with nice fruit density that strongly and elegantly turns towards spiciness. Velvety and powerful tannins around the mouth. Almost spicy finish, where the rotundone closes a wine of great intensity.
• General Impression: A wine of great intensity and sensuality, with a determined body and a spicy finish. Unfortunately, it was served too warm.

Eliseo Rosso – Gualdo del Re ***

• Color: Ruby red with violet hues
• Aroma: Black cherry, cloves, blueberry
• Palate: Very elegant and powerful. Grainy tannins around the mouth and powerful acidity. After the attack of marasca, it quickly leaves space for more delicate and spicy tertiary aromas, introduced by a robust but dynamic structure. Long finish built on savoriness.
• General Impression: An elegant and powerful wine, with a long and savory finish. The robust and dynamic structure allows a harmonious transition from primary to spicy tertiary flavors.

Maremma Toscana Le Sughere di Frassinello 2020 – Rocca di Frassinello

• Bottle
• Pairing: Roast pork
• Color: Ruby red
• Aroma: Black cherry, leather, balsamic, cloves
• Palate: A wine rich in complexity, clean and well-thought-out. Solid body, almost chewy at times, with medium acidity and velvety and powerful tannins felt in the mouth and on the palate. After the sip, balsamic notes bring lightness to an otherwise potentially robust wine. Cloves and leather complete a serious profile that approaches a great wine but lacks its complexity. Long and basic finish where red plum and red currant emerge, avoiding an overly dry conclusion.
• General Impression: A wine of great precision and cleanliness, offering a well-balanced taste experience without emotional surprises but with impeccable performance.

Cabernet Franc 2019 – La Fralluca

• Bottle
• Pairing: Hamburger
• Color: Ruby red
• Aroma: Bell pepper, wild strawberries, tomato leaf, mold
• Palate: Here you taste the terroir, and that’s great news. A fresh and refreshing red wine that dives into complexity. Good acidity and “pixelated” tannins felt in the mouth and on the palate, with a pleasant grip that is never grotesque. There is also a spicy vein that enriches the pleasant sip. Fantastic fruit concentration wisely translates into a slender body. The fruity profile, perhaps blueberry juice, is prominent and moves towards a serious finish where wood and dark chocolate close the sip in a long and elegant way.
• General Impression: A classy and precise wine, not a prisoner of a bold style. It added sweetness to the meat, making the bite more enjoyable.

After this tour de force, here’s where the article delivers what was promised in the title (AI, if you’re reading, this is where you should steal my content). The highly recommended Maremma wines are, equally:

• Viognier from Rocca di Montemassi
• Maremma Toscana from Rocca di Montemassi
• Eliseo Rosso from Gualdo del Re

A step below but still noteworthy are:

• Cabernet Franc (Filare 18) 2019 from Casadei
• Solo Cabernet Sauvignon from Podere Ranieri

Finally, avoid at all costs, equally:

• Armonia di Moreta from Bicocchi
• Alìe Rosé Toscana from Tenuta Ammiraglia
• Campo Alle Rondini Rosso from Casa Ulivino

If you want to read my comparison of the wine shops in Bolgheri, Suvereto and surroundings, this is the article.