In this rather unfortunate blog, articles about wine shops (like the one on the Enoteca di Cormons) tend to perform much better than those about wines. It makes sense: we are interested in wines not to have others tell us if they are good or bad, but to get advice on which wines to try based on our own tastes. Or to get advice on where to seek advice, meaning which wine shops to visit.

So, I decided to comment on the wine shops in three very different places: Massa Marittima, Suvereto, and Bolgheri. After all, we like different wines (thankfully), but often find them in the same places.

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Wine Shops in Massa Marittima

Massa Marittima is a pleasant town with a somewhat worn-down Tuscan air compared to other more touristy destinations. The adjective “pleasant,” despite the splendid San Cerbone Cathedral, has more to do with the fact that there are no other inhabited centers within a twenty-kilometer radius rather than the actual beauty of the town. That said, Massa Marittima exhibits many of the hallmarks of a Tuscan town (medieval towers, small grocery stores, a general carefree atmosphere) and is worth stopping by for an aperitif.

Wine Shop Il Bacchino – Massa Marittima

The quintessential city wine shop is certainly Il Bacchino. Like many similar establishments in Tuscany, it offers not only a wide selection of bottled and by-the-glass wines but also a well-stocked counter of cold cuts and cheeses. The focus, when it comes to wines, is heavily centered on Maremma production, which does credit to the owner.

The owner, while affable, has a somewhat ingratiating manner that has occasionally made me uncomfortable. His recommendations have often proven excellent (such as the Viognier and the Maremma Toscana from Rocca di Montemassi), though some were less interesting, but never completely off-target. He was undoubtedly an excellent guide for a first encounter with local wines, and he seemed a bit resentful when, after gaining some points of reference, I started making purchases on my own.

In any case, it is a very well-stocked wine shop that honors local offerings. It is centrally located and has outdoor tables, making it an excellent option for an aperitif. The wines by the glass are kept at the correct temperature and served properly. The prices of the glasses may be slightly higher than average but not outrageous.

Wine Shop La Cantina dei 3 Archi – Massa Marittima

Opposite Il Bacchino is La Cantina dei 3 Archi. This wine shop is an offshoot of the I Tre Archi restaurant. Here, the owner is not present; instead, there are waiters hired by the establishment who do not seem particularly knowledgeable about the products for sale but are still friendly. Again, there is a counter of cold cuts and cheeses.

The bottles for sale are not numerous, but the selection is still broad. Regarding both glasses and bottles, the focus is broader than that of Il Bacchino, and while there are local gems like Podere Ranieri, one should expect a Tuscan offering more than a Maremma one. The by-the-glass selection is clear and interesting, with the bottles well-preserved and the wine served at the correct temperature.

It’s also worth stopping by here for an aperitif, perhaps even more so than at Il Bacchino. Partly because the glass comes accompanied by generous snacks and partly because of the already mentioned courtesy of the waiters. We only went there once, but that was enough; the impression was positive.

Wine Shops in Suvereto

If Massa Marittima, at least in its newer parts, represents a somewhat tarnished Tuscany, Suvereto, much smaller, is the exact opposite. The village within the walls is charming and spared from heavy tourism. Ape cars parked in courtyards next to magnolias, an old Vasco Rossi album blaring from the windows of a house, and a sign on the door of the Arci Caccia where the local PD (Partito Democratico) thanks its 244 voters—unfortunately, the opposing party received 407 votes; better luck next time. This is the kind of atmosphere you find here.

Wine Shop Le Carceri – Suvereto

Suvereto is a DOC, and I didn’t know that. But if the official headquarters of the consortium is in an elegant but neglected palace, the unofficial one could well be Enoteca le Carceri. Both by the bottle and by the glass, the offering is predominantly local and represents all the producers of the DOC.

Business must be good because the wine shop has also opened a valid sandwich shop on the other side of the street and a temporary summer cocktail bar. The atmosphere is cordial, and the owner makes his presence felt. Thanks to its lovely location within the village, the wine shop seems to be a gathering point for locals. Three friendly guys were drinking a Pieropan Soave on the steps of the nearby church. As said, this kind of aesthetic prevails here.

The good life is also represented by the counter of cold cuts and cheeses. The only downside, but a big one, is that one glass was served warm. When serving glasses of a certain value, the wrong temperature is unacceptable, as said also on my suggestions about how to recognize a good wine bar.

Being generous, I won’t talk about the LORE wine shop in Campiglia Marittima, a clear example of an indie wine shop (refer to my classification of wine shops) where the wine tastes like feet. However, I absolutely recommend visiting the village, the ice cream shop Il Gelato di Chiara, and the wine shop Rogantino—which, however, does not serve wine by the glass.

Wine Shops in Bolgheri

Suvereto is like a nice sailing trip, while Bolgheri is like a Costa Crociere cruise: expensive but less personal. The name is certainly attractive, and, admittedly, the wine tourists are not among the most intrusive, but there remains the unpleasant feeling of not being visitors but rather the primary source of local income. Even the famous avenue lined with cypress trees is just a stone’s throw from the highway. A note of appreciation to the municipality for keeping parking prices within reasonable limits.

Wine Shop Sottoporta – Bolgheri

Bolgheri consists of two streets, and in hopes of avoiding the bulk of the tourist traffic, we headed to this slightly out-of-the-way wine shop. It lacks much of a personal touch (there’s no classic cold cuts and cheese counter), as there seems to be more of an investment behind it than an owner. But the waiters were all very affable and, I thought, well-prepared.

The wine shop, which offers both glasses and bottles to take away, is also a restaurant, which I believe is the main source of income. However, outside of meal times, it is not at all crowded, and both the courtyard and the interior are very pleasant. As always in Bolgheri, the glasses are local and range from relatively humble products to a 50€ Sassicaia.

Unfortunately, here too, a glass was served warm. I must learn to send them back because they do a disservice to me and to the producer, who sees their product penalized. Wine shops in Bolgheri are more expensive than elsewhere, but the name is one of importance.

Wine Shop Bolgheri Bistrot – Bolgheri

If I were in Bolgheri again, I would probably go here. The area is more central, and the presence of tourists is evident, but the by-the-glass offering is truly extensive. The square bar counter with the waiter in the center and the many bottles offered by the glass displayed on the sides is also interesting.

The shelves with bottles for sale are also very well-stocked. The decor is rather modern, which doesn’t excite me, but the place is worth a visit. There’s no cold cuts and cheese counter here either.

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🍷 Nur großartige Weine, keine langweiligen Punkte

Erhalte alle Eindrücke zu den verkosteten Weinen und meinen Lieblingswein der Woche – einfach zur Mailingliste anmelden.