Wine Affairs Spring Edition 2025

Wine Affairs is a pleasant event in the Viennese wine scene. True, it doesn’t offer the abundance of MondoVino or the all-Austrian excellence of VieVinum, but it’s a great after-work moment where wine lovers and the simply curious mingle in a festive atmosphere. I had attended two years ago at the Hilton; this year I returned, and the Marriott seemed an even better choice.

As mentioned, it’s an opportunity to taste and play, without taking things too seriously—and perhaps not even all the exhibitors do. Several wineries even share names with much better-known producers (see Kracher this year—not the sweet wine one), which can be misleading. It happened to me two years ago, making me realize that back then, in my notes, a “big name” outweighed my actual impressions. I hope I’ve since overcome some of that reverent awe, but it was important to discover, even if a bit embarrassing.

Let’s take a look at who stood out this year.

Domäne Wachau

Riesling Smaragd Achleiten

The standout of the day: not perfect, but a true storyteller. Flint and exotic fruit on the nose (mango, apricot), followed by a smoky veil that changes the wine’s profile. The well-managed acidity gives tension to a broad, almost chewable sip. The finish cleanses the palate with precision, thanks to a phenolic extraction that adds class and strength. Excellent acidic backbone and complexity.

Riesling Federspiel 1000-Eimer-Berg

A wine playing on the mango-acidity axis, with tension that holds everything in balance. The nose is open, clean, almost sunny. On the palate, it’s juicy, with ripeness well balanced by vertical acidity. Much to offer and discover.

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen

Needs time. The intensity is there, and so is the precision, but the wine still feels compressed, almost breathless. One can sense a wide aromatic palette, but it remains secondary to a structure that has yet to fully stretch out. Worth waiting for, with promising potential.

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen

More ready than its big brother, this is an exercise in “subtle” elegance. Almost silvery in color, with an aromatic profile of white fruit, freshly cut grass, and a curious hint of dandelion. Everything is in its place, everything just a bit more interesting than expected. A wine that proves classicism can still be intriguing.

V.D.N Grüner Veltliner

A half-successful experiment. Last time I tasted this wine, the nose was enchanting—this time, more pungent notes of acetone and solvent prevailed. Still, it redeems itself on the palate: full-bodied, round, with a successful balance between residual sugar and alcohol structure. A complex pleasure.

XA22 Grüner Veltliner

Fast, direct, fruity. With a delicate intensity.

Part II: Grüner, Roter, and Blaufränkisch — Between Clichés and Surprises

Groll

With Groll, we step into a different category: small producers whose wines often lack in finesse—to be generous.

Vom Löss Grüner Veltliner

Rather than terroir, this wine wants to tell you about a freshly cut meadow. Grass, chlorophyll, hay. A one-note nose and a palate that repeats without variation. A textbook example of a wine too young or too underdeveloped. Time to mow the lawn.

Ried Käferberg Grüner Veltliner

An improvement. The fruit speaks here: peach, apricot, a hint of honey. The body is more structured, and the connection between nose and palate more cohesive. It’s not a showstopper, but it holds its dignity.

Mehofer – The Timid Roter

Roter Veltliner Riesmein

Roter Veltliner is a variety still searching for a strong narrative. Here it sticks to the classic script: apple, pear, herbs. The nose is timid, almost absent, though the fruit slowly comes forward with time. The wine has good acidity and a decent fruit concentration. A bit mute—for now—but worth another look.

Pöttelsdorf – Three Faces of Blaufränkisch

Abendrot Blaufränkisch

The most balanced of the series. Fruity nose (cherry, ripe raspberry), velvety mouthfeel, and long, sculpted tannins. A wine that harmonizes elegance and substance. Beautiful texture.

Attacke Cuvée

Less interesting than the previous one. Lots of fruit (blueberry, blackcurrant) with a light structure. Not memorable.

Avatar Blaufränkisch

Muscular, almost aggressive. It bets everything on intensity and power but lacks expressiveness. Captivating tannins and a dark chocolate finish, but it’s missing depth.

Part III: Keringer and Matalj

Keringer

Keringer knows what it wants: wines with clear intent, well-structured and easy to enjoy. The 100 Days line perfectly reflects this philosophy. No flashes of genius, but everything is polished and well-executed.

Aviator Blaufränkisch

The best red from the producer at Wine Affairs. Long, fine tannins, well-measured fruit (blackberry, dark cherry), carefully handled extraction. Long finish with a spicy touch that keeps your attention. A wine that moves naturally between elegance and concentration.

Zweigelt 100 Days

Pure Zweigelt, for better or worse. Dominated by a strawberry pie note, but supported by a soft body, low tannins, and a very “food-friendly” texture.

Merlot 100 Days

Classic. Ripe fruit, medium body, balanced structure. All very Keringer: fruity, yet full of character.

Shiraz 100 Days

Curious, because the Syrah here has lost much of its usual spicy edge. The spice shows only at the end, while the sip is dominated by red and black fruit. A result of the winery’s philosophy—don’t expect varietal spiciness, but rather a gastronomic, pleasant wine. Powdery tannins around the mouth and good acidity.

Matalj Vinarija – Serbia with Structure

The international guest wineries this year were Serbian, and the tone shifted. Matalj isn’t afraid to show muscle and substance. These are wines that impress with power, tannins, and wood use. Yet, despite their volume, they manage to retain freshness.

Sauvignon Blanc “Terasa”

A textbook example of well-made Central European Sauvignon—but one that’s been seen before. Green apple, gooseberry, a juicy and lively palate with a nice texture. Hard to get excited, though.

Kremen Kremenjača

A sharp nose hit: licorice, chocolate, graphite. On the palate, the tannins are austere. A wine of substance.

Začinak Bukovski

Less powerful than the previous wine, but equally assertive. The spice is softer (sweet pepper, cinnamon), the tannins rounder. Pleasant in its refined rusticity.

“Bordeaux blend”

A classic blend sculpted in oak. The wood is evident but not overbearing. Spices like chocolate and nutmeg, and polished tannins shape the sip.

Kremen Cabernet Sauvignon

There’s acidity, and firm tannins around the mouth—but the mid-palate, the texture, is lacking. A classic raspberry nose.

Part IV: Orange, Aristocrats, and Fresh Paint

Plavinci – Raw, Wild Serbia

If Matalj is Serbia in a suit, Plavinci is the hipster Serbia. Natural wines, sometimes on the edge, never truly thrilling. They all carry the usual natural winery profile: fruit, yes—but also acetone, paint, and spontaneity.

Cilibar Panonia

A picnic wine. Fresh nose, with a subtle note of fresh paint. On the palate, it’s lively, short, but honest. Pleasant.

Selena

A more structured and interesting white. Richer texture, yellow fruit, and subtle tannins. Still true to that raw profile, but with more material.

Traminer in Amphora

Lots of aromas and the grape’s signature acidity, well calibrated. I’d try it again, though it didn’t thrill me.

Orange Pinot Grigio

The most radical of the group. Still that paint note (even more dominant), but also an engaging, well-integrated tannin. Not my style, but I get why fans of the genre would appreciate it.

Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein

At first glance—and first sniff—these wines may not seem exciting. But they show a consistent delicacy, with sober elegance and stylistic cleanliness.

Herrnbaumgarten

A white that blends a bit of Grüner and a bit of Riesling, with no pretensions. Stone fruit, white flowers, and green apple on the finish. No surprises, but everything is in its place.

Profundo Zweigelt

Lighter than Keringer’s version. Still strawberry, still softness—but here, less intensity and grip.

Leithaberg Blaufränkisch

The best wine tasted from this producer. Aromatic Blaufränkisch, with a crisp floral note, bright acidity, and well-sculpted tannin. Very well-managed, agile and clean.

Wine Affairs remains a great chance for those who want to drink well with ease. Domäne Wachau stood out, Keringer proved its worth, the rest was garnish—well-made, but still garnish

My Wine Affairs Spring Edition 2025 “Awards”

• Best Wine: Riesling Smaragd Achleiten
• Best Winery: Domäne Wachau