What the Wines of Cantina Colterenzio Are Like

Article update on September 5th 2025.

I discovered the wines of Cantina Colterenzio in the always beloved setting of the Ferronato Wine Shop in Pordenone. I was struck by the St. Daniel Pinot Nero (Blauburgunder) Riserva. At that time, my knowledge of Pinot Noirs was fairly limited—and even more so regarding Alto-Adige wines. This wine impressed me with its intense bouquet: little fruit, lots of spice (cinnamon), rosemary, pepper, and a touch of smokiness. Powerful and austere. On the palate, it is incredibly dense, with a full, viscous body that calls for food yet without any harsh edges. Perfect tannins.

That was enough for me to purchase, last year, a case of wines from the Cantina. The purchase included:

• 2× Pinot Nero Riserva St. Daniel DOC 2021 (19 euros each)
• 1× Since 83 Chardonnay DOC 2023 (17 euros)
• 1× Pinot Bianco Riserva Berg DOC 2021 (19 euros)
• 1× Lafóa Pinot Nero DOC 2020 (35 euros)
• 1× Lafóa Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva DOC 2020 (64 euros)

The total expense was 191 euros.

I Vini della Cantina Colterenzio

St. Daniel Pinot Nero (Blauburgunder) Riserva – Colterenzio (Schreckbichl) – 2021 (16/08/2024)

Color: Garnet red
Aromas: Raspberries, grilled meat, rosemary, smoke

A truly lively Pinot Nero. The nose is open, exuberant, and cheerful, yet never excessive. These same lively tones appear on the palate, where juicy blueberries and hints of bark seem to come alive. The acidity is well present, and the tannin—surprisingly dry and chalky on the gums—lends character and dynamism. There is a good concentration of fruit, but this is not a wine that needs years to reach its peak; it is ready to be enjoyed. The finish is fresh and persistent, with notes of mint, black currant, and a citrus touch that delivers one last burst of liveliness. A Pinot Nero that is pure joy and should not be approached too solemnly.

Since 83 Chardonnay – Colterenzio (Schreckbichl) – 2023 (12/12/2024)

Pairing: Spinach spätzle with speck and cream
Color: Straw yellow
Aromas: Aromatic herbs, butter, yellow plum, a note of reduction, wet flint

The nose reveals all the freshness typical of Alto-Adige wines: a lively profile with a slight reductive note, balanced by the richness imparted by aging on the lees. On the palate, it is broad, round, almost creamy, yet well supported by its freshness. The contrast between its opulent structure and the lighter notes of crisp pear is extremely pleasant. The acidity, very high, pushes the sip forward with decisive aromas of yellow plum and an excellent concentration of fruit, resulting in dynamic juiciness. The finish is powerful and saline, very long, though not particularly refined. Hints of a lit match, intense lime zest, and subtle white floral nuances emerge. A Chardonnay of character that plays with contrasts in a decisively pleasing way. Perfect with the spätzle—the richness and creaminess of the dish found an excellent ally in the wine’s freshness, which cleansed and refined each bite. Together with the previous wine, this is the cantina’s wine that I liked the most.

St. Daniel Pinot Nero (Blauburgunder) Riserva – Colterenzio (Schreckbichl) – 2021 (29/01/2025)

Pairing: Pasta with vegetable sauce
Color: Faded ruby red
Aromas: Blueberry, campfire, Christmas spices

Compared to the bottle tasted earlier, this sampling proved less surprising, yet still very pleasant. The nose is elegant, with no major surprises except for a note of lush red fruit that adds a certain charm. On the palate, forest fruits and spices already detected on the nose come forward. For a Pinot Nero, it has a rather robust and ambitious structure, but the density and breadth of the sip tend to mask some complexity and elegance. The acidity is well present, and the tannin—while velvety—is perceptible throughout the mouth, in perfect balance with the grape. The finish, slightly saline, balances its indulgent character with toasted spice accents. The pairing with pasta in vegetable sauce was not ideal: the wine proved too structured and lost some balance against the dish’s sweetness.

Berg – Colterenzio (Schreckbichl) – 2021 (12/02/2025)

Pairing: Bruschetta with pistachio pesto and anchovies
Color: Straw yellow
Wine Character: Angular, with defined edges and a nose typical of Pinot Bianco that starts closed

From the very first impression, it was clear that this was a classic cold-climate Pinot Bianco. The nose, initially timid, slowly unfolds to reveal notes of bread crust, lemon, and an unripe white peach. The palate follows with a cutting, almost ascetic character: it is not lacking in density, but its angularity makes it particularly aggressive. The acidity is extremely high and spreads across the tongue along with a polyphenolic structure that envelops the palate until a very long finish. A hint of white fruit (peach) can be detected, but the dominant structure of the wine makes it difficult to discern other details. The finish, consistent with the rest of the tasting, is very persistent and slightly saline, making it more accessible. Perhaps it is still too young, or simply a bit too angular to be fully appreciated. It worked with the bruschetta because it needed a strong flavor to achieve a proper balance. However, a slight headache after the tasting made me suspect that there might be a touch of artificiality in its winemaking. This was the wine I liked the least among those sampled.

Pinot Nero Lafóa – Colterenzio (Schreckbichl) – 2020 (06/04/2025)

Pairing: White meat ragù
Color: Garnet red
Aroma profile: Black—profoundly and inscrutably black—but then it leaves behind a thousand reflections and halos without color.

The nose has so many layers: initially, I was struck by the chocolate and dark cherry notes, then came the nuances of aromatic herbs, smoke, and cured meat. Not so much engaging as it is multi-layered and sophisticated. The palate reveals an elegant balance between fruit concentration and finesse. Medium powdery tannins are felt on the central gums, while good acidity drives the sip. Dominant flavors include burnt rosemary, figs, and cherry in alcohol. The savory, lip-smacking finish again shows herbal notes and a tangy, assertive peppery edge, with undertones of leather adding gravitas. The pairing gave the pasta a serious tone, enhancing the wine’s aromatic herb character and thickening the sip. While I didn’t fall in love with it, its elegance, restraint, and abundance of profiles were impossible to miss. Bravo, a very, very good wine.

Overall, these wines did not particularly captivate me. They are good—or even very good—but I did not experience the wonderful sensations of that first glass of St. Daniel Pinot Nero. However, there is still a bottle that, thanks to its pedigree, might change my overall impression—and I will be sure to update this article.

Some wines from the Colterenzio winery can be found at the Meister Literary Café in San Daniele.