Wein & CO Stephansplatz – Room for Improvement

I have wonderful memories of the Wein & Co wine bar at Stephansplatz, a true landmark in Vienna for every wine lover. This place was an educational wine bar for me, where I had the opportunity to taste my first fine wines, such as the Grüner Veltliner Honivogl by Hirtzberger. The concept of a half glass was almost an institution here, perfect for those who want to explore and sample a variety of labels without commitment. The extensive menu, always delightfully classic, was updated every month, with a special focus on a specific producer. Every month, what an enormous task.

The place was run by a guy named Joe (or maybe Jim?), an Irishman who seemed to truly love wine. I still remember his disappointed look when I told him I wouldn’t try a Castillo Ygay that was on the monthly menu — and he was right, of course. Once he described a wine as having “many profiles,” a curious and unexpectedly effective way of talking about what’s in the glass. It was a definition that struck me because when I read — in the much-hated tasting notes — about “layers,” I imagine a geologist with his hammer, certainly not a great wine. Instead, the concept of a profile suggests coherence, an internal logic in what you drink that gives it three-dimensionality.

All this to say that, until a few months ago, the Wein & CO at Stephansplatz (by the way, the main venue of the chain) had wines, people, and service unrivaled in the Viennese scene.

Then, as I’ve already mentioned, a lot has changed. Unfortunately.

My last visit, from which this review stems, left me a bit disappointed. The menu, as mentioned, now changes rarely and only slightly — and even the quality of the wines on offer seems to have declined. And the tradition of the half glass, which allowed for exploration without too much commitment, is no longer as common.

As for the staff, I noticed a significant decline: not only in their approach but also in their knowledge of the product. I probably visited at an unlucky time: late morning on a Thursday, with the place empty except for me, my wife, and a group of Viking — the company that organizes Danube cruises — tour guides. The poor folks were clearly looking for alcohol before the next guided tour on Sissi and yet another old lady who hadn’t followed the red umbrella and now, who knows where she is.

Review of Wein & CO Stephansplatz

Wine Quality

Rating: Good ⭐️⭐️⭐️

If there’s one aspect that still saves Wein & Co at Stephansplatz, it’s the overall quality of the wine selection. It’s true, we’re no longer at the level we once were when the menu was updated with Swiss punctuality every month, and there was always something new to discover. Now, changes occur less frequently, and it takes longer to notice new entries on the list, but the catalog remains rich and of good quality, with some very interesting labels.

Service

Rating: Very Good ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

The service remains solid, with attention to the wine temperature and the use of quality glasses, which significantly enhance the tasting experience. It’s true, there’s no bread (a small flaw for a wine bar of this level), but water is always present. One recurring issue is the risk of receiving sparkling wine glasses with nearly dead bubbles; however, the staff promptly resolves this by offering another properly served glass, showing care for the customer.

Half Glass

Rating: Good ⭐️⭐️⭐️

The menu offers “common” wines, served only by the glass, and premium wines, also available as a half glass. However, compared to the past, the approach has become stricter. It used to be almost a tradition to turn a blind eye and allow a half glass on request, even for wines not usually offered this way, making the tasting experience lighter and more flexible. Now, it’s no longer like that, and this choice has made everything more formal and less dynamic. For fans of the “half glass,” it’s a small change that impacts the overall experience.

Staff

Rating: Good ⭐️⭐️⭐️

The staff at Wein & Co are generally professional and courteous, but not all of them are wine experts. Additionally, they tend to be a bit slow in service, which can be annoying, especially when you have little time. However, their politeness and helpfulness still make the experience enjoyable.

Interior Design

Rating: Very Good ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

The interior design is a strong point: modern yet warm, creating a welcoming atmosphere. The long central bar is the true protagonist, with a charm that invites tasting and makes you feel alone even during rush hour. If there’s one aspect that could be improved, it’s the tables near the glass wall to the left of the entrance: they seem more like a random arrangement rather than a well-thought-out choice, almost chaotic.

Conclusion

Wein & Co at Stephansplatz remains an interesting stop for wine enthusiasts, even if it no longer shines as it once did. The quality of the wines is good, and the selection can still satisfy diverse palates, albeit without the lively rotation of the past. The service is attentive and generally careful, with small flaws compensated by the staff’s courtesy. The modern decor creates a welcoming environment, and the long bar is worth the visit.

However, some changes in the serving style and the handling of the half glass have made the experience more formal and less flexible; it feels like the ambitions have declined, and while this might have a reasonable economic rationale, it’s still a disappointment.

Overall Rating: Good/Very Good ⭐️⭐️⭐️½

Wein & CO Stephansplatz – October Wines

Fleur de Champagne Brut Premier Cru – Duval-Leroy

The Champagne opens with aromas of limestone, apple, and flowers, accompanied by a buttery note that adds roundness. On the palate, it’s rich and fleshy, perhaps too much for those who prefer a drier profile. The apple flavor comes back, accompanied by a fine but slightly sparse mousse. Overall, it’s a fruity Champagne that gently envelops the palate, but the price (if I’m not mistaken, around €12 per glass) makes no sense.

Ried Steinwand Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2022 – Rudi Pichler

A deep and attractive nose of lemon, orange zest, cream, and aged wood. The acidity is not very sharp, showing a sinusoidal pattern, and there’s not a strong concentration of fruit. The sip is agile and light. On the palate, there’s a note of green apple. The finish is very long and pleasantly bitter, though not accommodating in character. The green apple and citrus peel return with a very tense closure, consistent with the rest of the sip. For not being Pichler’s top wine, it’s truly impressive.

Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 2022 – La Perrière

Raw, but with nice fleshiness and meatiness, though a bit muted. The nose features gooseberry, orange, kiwi, and ripe white peach. The acidity is soft. In the mouth, there’s still plenty of orchard fruit pulp, and the finish is more interesting with pink grapefruit. Elementary.

Shiraz 2020 – Blueberry Hill

A great nose with blueberries, fireplace smoke, blackberries, and pepper. Truly deep and enveloping. Then, a swift palate: good acidity and soft, gummy tannins along the sides of the mouth. Lots of fruit and a body that wants to be agile, rapidly crossing a palate of blue fruits and gliding into a peppery yet meaty finish. Delightful fruit concentration.

Ried Kollmütz Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2017 – Rudi Pichler

You notice the nose immediately: cream, apricot, Golden apple, the depth of white pepper, vertical yet so enveloping. Then the palate, where acidity doesn’t dominate; it’s highly concentrated and almost tropical, with a finish full of salinity and ripe papaya. Hard to forget. Definitely the best wine of the day.

Morillon Ried Flamberg 2013 – Lackner Tinnacher

Styria never hides: even though it’s a Chardonnay, there’s plenty of apple and pear, along with smokiness and a tight character. The acidity is sparkling and angular, playing with the fruit. On the palate, the terroir returns, and the finish is tart. It precisely reflects its origin.

Conde de Valdemar Reserva 2016 – Bodegas Valdemar

Ruby with garnet reflections. A truly attractive nose, a Rioja that fascinates me. Tobacco, mulberries, incense, mushrooms. A soft, plush body, supported by a resilient acidic vein. Powdery, powerful tannins on the cheeks, almost necessary given the softness of the sip. Great fruit concentration, showcasing blackberries on the palate, then a very ripe plum finish, ending with a note of tobacco leaf. Unthinkable without food.

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2021 – Château Laroque

Ruby with violet reflections. Blackcurrant, macerated raspberries, young plum, mint. Compelling tannins, very gripping and gravelly around the mouth. Not a strong fruit concentration, but the sense of direction and excellent acidity drive the sip. On the palate, notes of wild berries and a sweet licorice finish. It’s consistent, but it lacks a bit of substance.

Conclusions

Best wine offered by Wein & CO in October 2024: Ried Kollmütz Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2017 by Rudi Pichler

Wein&Co. also has the great merit of organizing MondoVino. Read the review of the 2024 event.