Steirische Riedenweinverkostung in Vienna

To talk about others, let’s start by talking about ourselves: we don’t like tasting notes. Our position is detailed in our manifesto, but let’s try to give a concrete example:

Both a Sauvignon Blanc from Styria and a Chablis can have aromas that recall apples. But they have very little in common. Therefore, tasting notes can end up being not only terribly boring but also misleading, using the same descriptor for two very different experiences.

However, when frequenting Styria, there is a descriptor for local wines that seems to fit perfectly and cannot be used for wines from any other area. Styrian wines smell… well, of Styria. Take a walk through the local countryside on a crisp winter morning, and besides plenty of fresh air, you’ll also breathe in scents that you will later find in the local white wines.

If wine is a representation of the land, then the initiative taken by the association of Styrian producers with the Steirische Riedenweinverkostung makes sense—a tasting of wines produced from specific vineyard. Certainly, there is a global trend pushing for these wines, but it is coherent that wines deeply tied to the land are the perfect mirror of the land itself. Often, these wines are also a sign of producers who take quality very seriously.

Steirische Riedenweinverkostung at Kursalon Hübner

The exhibition made a stop in Vienna on a hot August 30th. The location was exceptional: the Kursalon Hübner near Stadtpark. Despite the heat and the end of the holidays, I noticed a good turnout from both specialized and general audiences, and the event deserved it.

The Wines of the Steirische Riedenweinverkostung

For those in a hurry, here are the key points for me:

• Best wines: Ried Theresienhohe Therese Sauvignon Blanc 2014 from Weingut Erich & Walter Polz and Ried Karsabathi Sauvignon Blanc 2021 from Skringer
• Best producers: Skringer and Weingut Primus
• Producer to buy from: Weingut Erich & Walter Polz, for the evident ability to produce wines that age well and the wide range of offerings
• Partial disappointment: Wohlmuth

On average, I found the wines to be between good and very good. I expected to find a lower average quality and more exceptional wines. Instead, only two wines truly captured my heart (the ones mentioned above), but I liked quite a few more than I expected.

It will be interesting to repeat this experience next year: after all, these tastings (another good example is A Glass of Burgenland in Vienna) are a snapshot of the current state of a region, and the beauty lies in noticing how styles and quality evolve over time. Another valuable element, in my opinion, is the presence of wines from different vintages, even older ones: an exceptional way to discover how both the wines and their makers change. Until next time, Styria! (Below is the complete list of wines tasted, along with impressions of the glasses and producers.)

Adam Lieleg

Ried Kranachberg Muskateller 2023
Great acidity and a spicy profile. Hints of yellow flowers, crushed rock, and apple. On the palate, notes of orange peel and mandarin emerge, making it a decidedly interesting wine.

Domaines Kilger

Ried Kranachberg Chardonnay Reserve 2021
Characterized by notes of white peach, it’s an extremely elegant Chardonnay in its spiciness, almost icy. It is strongly felt on the cheeks.

Ried Kranachberg Obere Kapelle Sauvignon Blanc 2021
A robust Sauvignon Blanc, with notes of wood and intense spiciness. It promises excellent evolution over time, with a tight and challenging structure.

Ried Kranachberg Sonnenhang Sauvignon Blanc 2022
More playful and floral compared to the previous one, with green and less noble nuances, but still fun and enjoyable.

Elsnegg

Urlkogel Sauvignon Blanc 2020
A bit muted at first but offers spices, verbena, tomato leaf, and an important finish thanks to the wood.

Urlkogel Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Similar to the 2020 but with more flowers and a touch of fruit. Elegant and well-balanced.

Felberjörgl

Ried Kreuzegg Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Rose petals, pink grapefruit, tomato leaf, and tropical accents. The acidity grows in the mouth, culminating in a fresh pink grapefruit finish. Fun and lively.

Frauwallner

I know this producer well and have already purchased his wines. The quality has proven to be very good once again.

Ried Buch Weissburgunder 2021
It offers notes of bread crust, smokiness, and candied fruit. The acidity blends with the fruit, giving a wine of great character and length.

Ried Buch Morillon 2021
Another well-executed Chardonnay, with hints of yellow apple and peach. The finish is long and chalky—splendid.

Ried Buch Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Pink grapefruit and tomato leaf combine with increasing acidity. The finish is tight and vibrant.

Ried Buch Sauvignon Blanc 2020 and 2019
Similar to each other, with more yellow apple in the 2020 and better balance in the 2019. Well-integrated wood and a slightly bitter finish.

Krispel

Ried Neusetzberg Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Classic yellow apple and great fruit concentration. A rich and spicy wine with a long character.

Grauburgunder Hochstrandl 2020
A wine with excellent acidity and structure, culminating in a long, spicy finish.

Langmann

Schilcher Hochgrail 2023
Neither the best nor the worst. Notes of grape skin and a scratching acidity on the tongue, but without evident aromas. Medium body.

Müller Klöch

Ried Seindl Riesling 2021
Classic lime and apricot notes, with an interesting saline finish and a precise acidity serving as the backbone.

Muster-Gamlitz

Grubthal Sauvignon Blanc 2022
With notes of matchstick and lively acidity, it’s a taut and very interesting wine.

Grubthal Chardonnay 2020, 2019, and 2018
The 2020 is characterized by apple and well-integrated wood, while the 2019 is more muted. The 2018 stands out with rich and delicate wood and well-defined acidity.

Weingut Erich & Walter Polz

An intriguing producer whose wines have a defined identity.

Ried Theresienhohe Therese Sauvignon Blanc 2022 and 2014
Very elegant, rounded, and not unripe.

Ried Theresienhohe Therese Sauvignon Blanc 2018
A bit too overblown.

Ried Theresienhohe Therese Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Exceptional. An herbal soap bubble that bursts outward. UFO fruit concentration and many polyphenols, loaded with infinite grace.

HG Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Perhaps too reduced but full of aromas and good acidity.

HG Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Scent without substance. Splendid.

HG Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Slightly musty.

Obegg Morillon 2021
A reduction that smells.

Obegg Morillon 2015
Immediate in its completeness. The right balance of many things. Wood and apple. Classy Styria.

Pongratz

Schwalbenhimmel Ried Hochberg Chardonnay 2021
Rounded, with floral notes and long persistence. An ambitious and complete wine.

Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Juicy and fun, with gooseberry notes and a hint of aromatic herbs.

Stefan Potzinger

Steinriegel Riesling 2023
A Riesling that reflects its territory, but not in a particularly interesting way. Fruity, with notes of quince.

Czamillonberg Sauvignon Blanc 2023
More elegant with tropical fruit notes, yet still representative of the region.

Weingut Primus

Ried Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Fruity (apple and gooseberry) but also deep, nuanced, and elegant.

Ried Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Same as above.

Ried Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
More floral and fragrant than the previous one, but very ethereal and precise, with a hint of minerality.

Ried Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Same as above, with a gentle acidity.

Schneeberger

Ried Hochbrudersegg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Compact in its fruit, but very similar to the other Sauvignon Blancs in the selection.

Skoff Original

Hohenegg Gelber Muskateller 2022
More elegant compared to Adam Lieleg’s Muskateller, with lively acidity and floral notes.

Skringer

Ried Karsabathi Weissburgunder 2022
Acidic, lemony, tickling the tongue, extroverted. Notes of shrubs and orange soda with tropical nuances. Beautiful.

Ried Karsabathi Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Very elegant, refined, and smooth. Gooseberry.

Ried Karsabathi Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Exceptional in its completeness and enveloping character. Pineapple, possibly cream, complex. Gentleness that grows, savory, and rightly saline.

Ried Karsabathi Grauer Burgunder 2022
Taut, rich, and severe. Clementine peel.

Ried Karsabathi Grauer Burgunder 2021
Tense and citrusy with cooked and candied citrus peel.

Weingut Bernd Stelzl

Ried Hirritschberg Weisser Burgunder 2021
A pleasant wine with a subtle aromatic profile expressing spices and candied orange.

Ried Hirritsch Hube Chardonnay 2021
Rich, pleasant, and spicy, this Chardonnay stands out for its long persistence on the palate.

Ried Hirritschberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
An aromatic bouquet with notes of quince and kumquat. A polyphenolic and gentle finish, but overall, not particularly impressive.

Weingut Thaller

This producer was already encountered at VieVinum, where their Cabernet Sauvignon had made a much better impression.

Sauvignon Blanc Vom Schloss 2021
Fresh, tropical, and floral, with a touch of orange and an almost spicy texture in the mouth that provides warmth.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Predominantly green and bitter notes, making it quite an austere Cabernet.

Eruption Rot 2018
A well-crafted Zweigelt with soft tannins that envelop the lips and a sweetness from the wood that makes it enjoyable. A rounded and engaging wine.

Tschermonegg

Sauvignon Blanc Lubekogel 2022
A Sauvignon Blanc with floral and apple pulp aromas. Fresh and inviting.

Sauvignon Blanc Lubekogel 2010
Interesting for the honey notes developed over the years. However, it remains a bit enigmatic and not entirely defined.

Wohlmuth

I had heard good things about this producer but ended up being rather disappointed.

Ried Steinriegl Gelber Muskateller 2022
More elegant than other Gelber Muskateller wines, with salinity felt on the tongue and good length. A refined and characterful wine.

Ried DR. Wunsch Riesling 2023
A Riesling with a strong Styrian identity, with notes of flint that make it unique and unmistakable. Unique and impossible to overlook.

Ried Edelschuh 2022
Not very different from the previous one.

Ried Steinriegl Sauvignon Blanc 2022
An elegant wine, but where the producer’s style, although elegant, seems to prevail over the raw material.