Sicilian Red Wines at Pub Klemo

I’ve spoken about Pub Klemo recently (and also very recently), but for the sake of completeness, here’s a summary of this Viennese wine bar’s review:

Pub Klemo is a very good wine bar with a quality offering and a wide selection of wines, featuring two themed tastings on a weekly basis. The wine rotation is frequent, and the service is professional: the wine temperature is always spot-on, and the option for a half-glass is much appreciated. The atmosphere is intimate, thanks to rustic furnishings and soft lighting.

The main flaw of Pub Klemo is its tendency to follow trends, particularly the trend of natural wines (you will hardly find the Chardonnay Gemola by Vignalta there). Nevertheless (or perhaps precisely because of this), I decided to jump into the lion’s den and sample the red wines on offer when it was the turn of a very hip region: Etna. Hip, and also a bit hard for me to understand.

Etna is complicated for me. I acknowledge its value, both for white and red wines, but they’ve always seemed a step behind the regions they are often compared to (like Piedmont for reds) or regions I personally love. Even though I must admit to having tasted an excellent Etna Bianco at the Italia Selection XVIII, over time, I’ve developed the impression that Etna and Sicilian wines, in general, are a bit overhyped.

However, I must also admit that my knowledge of these wines is based on unstructured and occasional tastings. Before dismissing such an important wine region as a “trend,” one needs to taste much more, and with great attention.

Etna Rosso Tastings at Pub Klemo

• Nerosanlorè 2008 – Gulfi
  An interesting nose, with burnt notes followed by juicy berries, plums, and a savory earthiness. The body appears fragile and struggles to express itself, perhaps due to the southern Nebbiolo character (as confirmed during Doctor Wine in Vienna 2024) or excessive aging. It doesn’t quite win over, but it leaves a memorable peppery finish. Granular tannins on the gums and vibrant acidity. Over time, a pleasant juiciness emerges.
• Etna San Lorenzo Rosso 2020 – Tenuta delle Terre Nere
  More lively than the previous one. The nose is marked by cherries, spices, and floral notes, with a pronounced freshness. The body is delicate, with granular yet more engaging tannins (helped by its youth). On the palate, the floral notes return, with a fragrant yet velvety presence. Excellent acidity and a finish evolving towards cloves.
• Dagala di Bocca d’Orzo Etna Rosso 2021 – Tenuta delle Terre Nere
  This was definitely the best wine of the evening along with Cornelissen’s Magma: really very good, although not exceptional. A wine of great elegance. Notes of red currants, mountain air, old wood, and black tea. Firm, granular tannins around the mouth. The body is well-structured, enriched by delicate floral and blue fruit notes that make it smooth. The finish, almost cassis-like, concludes with precision and depth. A concentrated wine with sculpted fruitiness.
• MunJebel Rosso 2017 – Frank Cornelissen
  A decidedly “artisan” wine. Dominated by notes of leather, wildness, and attic on the nose. In the mouth, the wild notes return, with rough and powerful tannins. The finish evolves towards dates and sultanas, with an intense juice that demands attention. Long and persistent, it ends on notes of chili pepper. Decent acidity. A wine for those who appreciate the producer’s hand, who is well-known in the biodynamic scene.
• Magma 2020 – Frank Cornelissen
  A Sicilian Barolo, without compromise. Blueberries, marine notes, geranium, and a touch of acetone on the nose. Powerful tannins envelop the lips. On the palate, it explodes with blueberries and a full yet surprisingly light body. The finish is intense, almost overwhelming, with tannins promising a long life. Currently very young, with timid acidity. Here too, the producer’s hand is felt, but the price, around €300 per bottle, seems nonsensical and off the scale.

In conclusion, the Etna red wines I tasted seemed very good, some almost exceptional, but unfortunately, I haven’t yet found my favorite red.

Read also my review of Donnafugata’s wines.