Selezione Italia XXXI – Journey to Italy

There are thematic tastings, verticals, highly specialized events. And then there are days like this, when you find yourself in front of an entire Italy compressed into a hotel ballroom in Vienna. From North to South without interruption: Amarone, Soave, Taurasi, Brunello, Etna, Barbaresco. Names that carry weight, appellations that evoke stories, territories that have built global reputations.

Selezione Italia XXXI was above all this: the demonstration of how fascinating – and anything but obvious – it is to put together a complete mosaic of Italian wine. Because when you have an Amarone in your glass immediately after a Nerello Mascalese from Etna or a young and restless Brunello, you truly understand what it means to speak of “Italy” in the singular. It is not a concept, it is a continuous contrast. And that is precisely where the fun lies.

The Exhibitors

Behind every tasting table there is much more than a bottle and a roll-up. At work there is a person – often two – who for hours repeats, tells stories, listens, pours, observes. And who must do it with clarity, energy, and a certain mental flexibility.

Because you never know who is standing in front of you.

There is the experienced importer who wants technical details, the restaurateur already thinking about the price on the wine list. And there is also the person who passes by by chance and falls in love with a wine they did not even know five minutes earlier.

This is where the Selezione Italia format comes into play.

Selezione Italia, now a consolidated reality in Vienna, functions as a meeting platform between Italian producers and the Austrian market. It is not a sprawling trade fair, nor an event with thousands of people. It is a context aimed at a specialized audience, where contact is direct. The producers (or their representatives) are there, at the table, without filters. Wine is poured, people talk, negotiate, build relationships.

And that is precisely the point.

For small and medium producers it is a valuable opportunity: not only to sell, but to position themselves and understand how their wine is perceived outside Italy. But also to test real reactions, not mediated by scores or rankings.

For the local market – importers, sommeliers, restaurateurs – it is an intelligent shortcut: in a few hours you can cross the whole of Italy, compare styles, discover emerging realities alongside already well-known names.

And then there is a less visible but fundamental aspect: the work of those who organize. Bringing together companies different in size, regions, and styles, creating a coherent flow, attracting the right audience. It is not trivial (we talked about it here with Christian Bauer, the organizer). It is a delicate balance between selection, reputation, and logistics.

But in the end, however impeccable the organization may be, however prepared the representative may be, the same foundation always remains: after the first few minutes of conversation, it is the wine that does the most important work.

The Wines of Selezione Italia XXXI

Corte Cavedini opened the dance with an Amarone 2021 that surprises for its restraint. No hyper-concentrated caricatures: the overripe fruit is present but contained, shifted more toward plum than toward marked tertiary registers. The body is relatively agile for the type, but aromatic depth is not lacking. An Amarone that chooses freshness and definition instead of excess.

Cantine del Notaio, with La Firma Aglianico del Vulture, proposed a red built on ripe blackberries and sandalwood, with an elegant and granular tannin that envelops without biting. Not explosive in fruit, but long and coherent. An Aglianico more reflective than muscular.

Suavia showed stylistic coherence across three different wines. The Soave Classico, floral and agile, almost reminiscent of a Muskateller, focuses on drinkability with a slight honeyed recall. The Monte Carbonare raises the tone: deeper, more volcanic, more serious. The Massifitti, finally, is the most intense of the trio, juicy and concentrated, almost a Soave Classico pushed to the extreme in terms of energy and substance.

Villa Matilde offered a complete Campanian overview. The Greco di Tufo Daltavilla is fresh but ripe, with apricot and a well-centered bitter and saline finish. The Taurasi Petrafusa rises in level for compactness and depth: small black fruits, an almost soy-like note, and an acidity that supports decisively. The Falanghina Roccaleoni, instead, appeared more vegetal and slightly compressed (also due to service), less harmonious compared to the other two.

Podere Giardino was probably the most surprising estate of the day. The Le Tracce Rosso di Montalcino 2023 was almost touching for intensity of fruit: ripe cherry, leather, generous tannins and an enveloping warmth that makes it “eternally Tuscan”. The Brunello 2021, more evolved and played on graphite, licorice and tobacco, seemed less dense in fruit. The Brunello 2020 instead finds momentum again: sour cherry, sandalwood, an almost tea-like note and above all a very refreshing mentholated finish. The Riserva 2019 is the big brother, compact and thoughtful, with cocoa and an important structure. Lamoni 2020 closes, a Supertuscan that tries to smooth the edges, with a vegetal trace (almost bell pepper) and good depth, but less explosive than the category would suggest. A small winery capable of competing at a high level.

Branko with Capo 2024 did not convince completely: slightly floral, white peach, but with a certain flatness that does not do justice to the potential of Collio. A correct wine, but not memorable.

Zorzon, with the Friulano 2024, did better: medicinal herbs, ripe peach, white currant and that classic almond-like finish that gives identity. A slightly sweet thread in the medium-full body, but supported by an acidity that keeps the sip taut. Not gripping, but centered.

Ernesto Ruffo brought Amarone back onto traditional tracks with the 2013: dates, raisins, cocoa, blackberry candy, rotten leaves. A classic, almost nostalgic approach, with an evident sweetness and an imprint deliberately faithful to the historical style of the denomination.

Le Casematte showed how much Sicily – and in particular the Etna and Messina slope – is building an increasingly recognizable identity. The Peloro Rosso is deep and juicy, with wild strawberry, violet, angular but precise tannins, great tension and freshness: one of the most complete and fascinating wines among those tasted. The Faro, rounder as a blend, maintains juicy red fruit and good length, but loses a bit of the Peloro’s verticality.

Tenute Bosco brought an interesting Etna triad. The Etna Bianco 2024 is dense on the bouquet, vegetal, almond-like, almost reminiscent of an Assyrtiko, taut and vibrant on the palate. The Etna Rosato 2021 surprises with a nose initially closed that then opens onto a curious coffee candy, with a denser body than expected. The Etna Rosso 2022 is elegant and floral, with cranberry notes and fine tannins, but slightly shy in structure.

Donnafugata, with Mille e Una Notte, played the card of silkiness and richness: blackberry, strawberry, spices, broad and layered structure. A wine that still seems to be evolving, but that confirms the house’s polished stylistic signature.

Boffa, finally, closed with two Barbaresco very different from each other but united by elegance and austerity. The Pajè is light in body but long and savory, with blueberries, plum and still powerful tannins; almost playful in its finesse. The Ovello is more serious and deep: asphalt, burnt earth, smoke, greater structure and astringent tannins that require time. Two faces of Nebbiolo, both still in the construction phase.

What struck me at Selezione Italia XXXI

• Best wine: Le Tracce Rosso di Montalcino 2023 by Podere Giardino
• Other exceptional wines: Le Tracce Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Brunello Riserva 2019 by Podere Giardino and Peloro Rosso by Le Casematte
• Best producer: Podere Giardino
• Region in top form: Sicily

Selezione Italia has often featured Sardinian wines as well. If you enjoy discovery, Greek Limniona might be the wine for you.