Happy Birthday, Selezione Italia!

Selezione Italia, the Viennese event that puts Italian producers in communication with possible Austrian buyers, has been a frequent guest of this site (here the summer edition and here the previous one). One more reason to do so this time is that the edition held on September 15th at the now-classic Hotel Regina is number 30. After more than a decade in the world of wine and of intermediation between Austria and Italy, I thought of asking Christian Bauer, the organizer, to retrace the history of the event and to talk about future prospects.

What is Selezione Italia, how does it work and to whom is it addressed?

It is a targeted, B2B event that we have organized in Vienna for 15 years to put Italian wine and food producers in contact with Austrian operators interested in Italian wines and products. We rent the rooms of the Hotel Regina, located in the center of Vienna, where over the course of a day the producers have the operators participating taste their wines and food products. In short, we consider ourselves a bit like a matchmaking agency, we bring the two sides closer, those who are looking and those who are offering, we bring them to get to know each other and then… if it’s roses they will bloom.

How did your adventure begin? What pushed you toward this initiative and what motivated you to continue even after the initial enthusiasm?

When I returned to Vienna 16 years ago together with my wife who is from Milan, we noticed a great enthusiasm for “Made in Italy” in general, and above all for Italian cuisine and wines. So we decided to act as a “wine bridge” between Italy and Austria, uniting the 2 countries from the food-and-wine point of view. A strong motivation to continue is also hearing the Austrian operators who tell us they found and ordered thanks to us excellent wines, often with an excellent quality–price ratio, or the Italian producers who confide to us that they have received requests and even visits from buyers directly at the winery. For this reason our events have remained “small,” so as to be able to continue to have a personal relationship with the various parties involved and to know their needs. A bit like in an artisanal tailor’s shop, we try to do made-to-measure work.

What are the greatest complexities you encounter in your work? I imagine managing the logistics and so many partners is not at all simple!

I would first put the focus on the opportunity and the joy of bringing together, around a table, high-level wine producers and operators who often look for niche products from lesser-known native varieties. Some producers found themselves so well that they participated up to 10 times.

How have you seen the market for Italian wine in Vienna change over these years and in what state do you find it today?

Whatever the general economic situation, there is always interest in wines that express their territory, that have something to tell, rare varieties, difficult territories, but also the producer’s skill. The Italian sparkling-wine sector is growing in Austria; the Italian metodo classico has a very positive image.

If you like, a funny or curious memory experienced in these years of Selezione Italia.

The most relaxing moment is the dinner after the event that we organize for the producers, who can bring their wines to a restaurant in Vienna. When all the efforts are over, we finally enjoy a good glass of wine!

In fact, in these years, I have noticed how Selezione Italia is a perfect outlet above all for three types of producers:

1. Emerging companies, in search of visibility
2. Established entities but coming from less-known territories, compared to the Holy Trinity of Italian export (Tuscany, Piedmont, Prosecco)
3. Wineries that, while belonging to famous areas, wish to enter the Austrian market, attentive, demanding, but also receptive and with good spending capacity

In the latest edition, I also noticed the presence of Austrian retailers specialized in Italian wine, such as the excellent Gottardi. Another interesting signal is the use of the event by producers, such as Dario Coos, to meet already-acquired clients: an informal but effective occasion to strengthen existing relationships. Selezione Italia, in short, continues to adapt, just like every successful event.

The Wines of Selezione Italia XXX

Vigneti Cenci

The range of Franciacorta of Vigneti Cenci shows a multifaceted personality. Franciacorta Zero Cuvée Pas Dosé is taut and crisp, with notes of apple, linden flowers and the albedo of lemon, managing to remain sharp without ever being surly. Franciacorta La Capinera Cuvée Brut N.V. turns out more dilute, with a yeasty profile and an attempt to give volume, but it closes in a clean way. In Franciacorta La Via della Seta Cuvée Satèn Brut notes of ginger and pastry cream emerge, but overall it lacks a decisive character. Definitely better Franciacorta Nelson Cenci Cuvée Extra Brut, which stands out as the best of the house, with volume and direction, citrus and Mediterranean tones, linden and hazelnuts. Disappointing instead the still Senza Bolle, practically empty and with almost absent aromas.

Cesarini Sforza

Brut Rosé N.V. surprised me positively. Here the crisp fruit of redcurrant and alpine herbs joins aromas of bread crust. The perlage is soft and the acidity lively: an intriguing whole.

Bellavista

Bellavista was one of the two wineries brought by Gottardi and, faithful to its fame, really struck me with its well-recognizable style. Alma Assemblage 1 has a lot of volume, a lively foam and a lemon-sorbet freshness. Alma Cuvée Rosé is very soft and intense, with full body and refined notes of magnolia, peach, spices and strawberry, closing with a light chalky sensation on the lips. I was less engaged by Teatro Alla Scala, dilute and not very aromatic, with only the volume to sustain it.

Petra

Petra, the Suvereto winery owned by the daughter of the Bellavista patron, is the other winery brought by Gottardi and is the one that struck me most in the whole event. Petra’s red lineup presents itself with different approaches. HEBO (Suvereto) is immediate, fruity and bright, with blackberry and sour cherry, intense and fresh but without great complexity. Quercegobbe Merlot stands out for intensity and savoriness, fleshy with notes of pomegranate, well-integrated wood and a peppery finish with chalky tannin. The flagship wine, Petra, shows great power and elegance: on the nose black pepper, eucalyptus and warm spices; on the palate an elegant and taut body, with a coffee finish and tannins present but tender, a friend of food thanks to excellent acidity. Petra is surely the wine that fascinated me most throughout the day.

Medici Ermete

The sparklings and Lambruschi of this Emilian winery move between lightness and play. Unique Rosé Brut has light aromas, almost of candied fruit, but minimal intensity: innocent and playful. Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano aims at the more fun side, with blueberry candy, uva fragola and geranium; the perlage is delicate and the close slightly savory. Richer Le Tenute Bocciolo Grasparossa, which brings notes of candied cherries, volume and savoriness, with a slightly wild vein.

Castello di Meleto

The lineup of this Tuscan estate is very varied and discontinuous. The sparkling Teátrico Spumante brut rosé metodo classico 2020 has a nice perlage and pleasant red fruits, but lacks character. The white Simbionte Bianco 2023 reduces to an apple juice on the palate, practically nil on the nose. With the Chianti things change: Chianti Classico 2023 expresses sun and freshness, with raspberries, cherry and floury tannins. Riserva 2021 shows more intensity and notes of tobacco and bergamot, but the alcohol is excessive. Gran Selezione 2020 stands out with tobacco, officinal herbs, asphalt and burned rosemary, powerful and balanced, with long duration.

Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani

Great quality and confidence in their means for this long-established Veronese estate, a classic example of an already road-tested operation that wants to interface with the Austrian market. Lepiga Soave 2024 turns out dull and difficult to decipher, with only hints of white fruit. Much better Pràgal, rich and lively, round and fresh with strawberries and blackberries. The Valpolicella range convinces: Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2023 is precise and with splendid length, even if it lacks a bit of fruit concentration; Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Classico 2021 shows softness, chocolatey sweetness and a sanguine finish. Decima Aurea Merlot 2020 has great character, lively acidity and floury tannin, pure in its balance. Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Brolo dei Poeti 2007 is very serious, with tobacco and toast, long duration and firm tannin. Finally, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2021 plays on sweetness and agility, with raspberries and redcurrants and a long sugary finish. Nice labels too, which wink at vintage in Lurisia style.

La Porta di Vertine & Bertinga

Chianti Classico 2022 is soft and fruity, with cherry, plum and a vanilla note. Tannins kept well at bay, for a smooth and gentle profile. Moving to the Bertinga wines, Sassi Chiusi 2020 is a bit empty but satisfying. Rosso 2018 has small-berry fruits, very fruity and almost jammy. Punta di Adine 2019 is decided, with notes of asphalt and nuts. Volta di Bertinga 2015 shows nobility of the wood and spices, but on the palate it loses drive.

Dario Coos

The Friulian estate was able to enjoy a very pumped representative, enthusiastic and who seemed very at ease in the even frenetic comings and goings of visitors. He himself seemed frenetic to me. The wines were all of good level. Malvasia is tropical, soft and juicy, but with acidity that supports it well. Pinot Bianco has a buttery body balanced by a bitter-edged finish. Il Longhino Ramandolo 2022 appears neutral on the nose but explodes on the palate with overripe fruits, candied peels and baked apples, balanced and harmonious. Ramandolo stands out as a wine of depth, with nuts in honey, saffron and great length, supported by acidity and herbal notes. Romandus (which is a vermouth) surprises with its bitter character, rich in officinal herbs and personality.

Alessio Komjanc & Ronco Blanchi

Both estates were represented by a retailer. Malvasia by Komjanc was penalized by the serving temperature that was too low: it remains herbal and citrusy, very held back. More interesting Dedica Pinot Nero, which begins with a playful tone from Friulian red, with cloves, and closes herbal with a touch of orange peel, showing character. Moving to Ronco Blanchis, Collio Friulano is soft and tropical, with a medium–full body that seems to want to say something with calm and measure.

Selezione Italia XXX – The Best Wines

• Best Wine: Petra by Petra
• Other Exceptional Wines: Quercegobbe Merlot (Querce Gobbe) by Petra, Alma Assemblage 1 and Alma Cuvée Rosé by Bellavista, Ramandolo by Dario Coos
• Best Winery: Petra
• Other Excellent Wineries: Bellavista
• Liveliest Representative: Dario Coos

Many happy returns, Selezione Italia, and (at least) thirty more of these editions! (here is the report of the thirty-first edition).