Selezione Italia XXVIII

As the more informed among you may know, there was a recent catastrophic event in Austria—aside from the FPÖ winning the elections, of course. In mid-September, a deluge fell across the entire country, and while the damage to people was contained, the damage to property was significant. Within the chaos, there were also other unfortunate episodes, minor issues that are nonetheless worth mentioning.

Christian Bauer knows something about this, as he was organizing Selezione Italia XXVIII (but he also organized Selezione Italia XXIX, Doctor Wine 2024 in Vienna and Barolo & Friends 2025) during those days—an exhibition where Italian producers not yet present in the Austrian market can meet importers, retailers (such as the owners of the shop that sells Blanc dal Gigi), and local restaurateurs to propose their products. The event was held at the centrally located and elegant Hotel Regina, but on September 16, the hotel’s picturesque façade was as drenched as most of Austria. Schade, as they say here.

Less determined organizers would have given up. However, Bauer, with his extensive experience (the event is held twice a year, so we’re well over ten years of activity now), pushed forward, and I believe the effort paid off: almost all exhibitors were present, and while the specialized audience was smaller than usual, there were many attendees from outside Vienna. Personally, I found the quality of the wines higher than I expected, and some producers truly caught my interest.

It’s an event that appeals to the non-specialized public, but unfortunately, it’s closed to regular enthusiasts. This makes sense: exhibitors participate and pay to develop their business. But perhaps, who knows, in the future Bauer and his team will find a way to add a moment for the general public, possibly with an agreement with the producers. We’ll see. For now, this edition of Selezione Italia was genuinely interesting.

Selezione Italia XXVIII – Tasting and Exhibitors

Franciacorta

• La Torre Franciacorta Brut
  • Simple and straightforward, with notes of peach, almond, and yellow plum. The perlage was a bit disappointing.
• Villa Franciacorta Franciacorta Emozione Brut
  • Intense tertiary aromas and baked apple. A powerful aftertaste with a well-structured body.
• Franciacorta Bokè Rosè Brut
  • Good overall value with scents of wet metal and wild strawberries (thanks to the Pinot Noir). Excellent perlage, but not persistent.
• Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Nature Edizione
  • Wild and reductive notes with a well-balanced perlage.
• Animante Franciacorta N.V.
  • Similar wild and reductive profile as the previous one, but with an added touch of refinement.
• Rosé Extra Brut
  • Very delicate with an enchanting perlage. Notes of small red fruits and a hint of cinnamon. A classic and reliable style.

Menhir

• Filo Riserva (Negroamaro)
  • Intense aromas of black cherry, wood, and hints of violet. However, the body feels somewhat soft, with fragile tannins and moderate acidity. Unfortunately, it loses some character on the palate.

Giannitessari

• Lessini Durello Brut
  • Surprising freshness and energy for a grape not always appreciated. The nose reveals notes of white flowers, with aromas that, for some reason, reminded me of Collio. Lively acidity that leaves the mouth pleasantly dry.

Tenuta di Sesta

The winery that impressed me the most at the event. Behind the stand were two people: a company representative who looked quite down due to the weather and the jovial son of their sales agent, who, with his gift of gab and a unique bow tie, practically hooked me to their table. Armed with notes prepared before the event, I planned to taste only three wines, but I ended up sampling the entire catalog. Fortunately, as the wines are truly excellent and more modern than the fax-numbered price list handed to me at the end by the skilled salesman.

• Camponovo Toscana 2023
  • Aromas of red fruits on the nose, simple (this bottle is part of their basic line) but pleasant.
• Poggio d’Arna Toscana 2022
  • Hints of leather and earthiness, with pleasant tannins. Medium-bodied, balanced, and enjoyable. Truly good, with excellent value for money.
• Rosso di Montalcino 2022
  • Earthy and spicy, with vibrant freshness. The agent seemed to like it a lot, perhaps also to push it on the market, but it appealed less to me.
• Brunello di Montalcino 2019
  • Stunning. Rich and intense, with depth and umami notes. Tannins are well balanced by lively acidity. A linear and complex wine.
• Brunello di Montalcino Costa di Monte 2019
  • Incredible. Deep and soft, with intriguing hints of leather. A wine of great beauty and refinement.
• Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018
  • Stunning. Intense, with notes of coffee and earthiness. The umami blends with pleasant acidity, giving a warm and persistent finish.

Giacomo Vico

While the representative from Tenuta di Sesta was dynamic, the one from Giacomo Vico seemed rather indifferent. However, he was in good spirits and shared anecdotes about how the winery has millions of bottles in storage, only released when deemed ready. I’m not sure how commercially viable this is, but without evidence to the contrary, I’m reporting what I heard.

• Bricco al Pascolo Roero Arneis Riserva 2020
  • Unexpectedly interesting for a grape that has never impressed me before. Notes of honey and pulpy orange tropical fruits, accompanied by yellow flowers. The finish is refreshed by a touch of lemon, with lively acidity that tickles the palate. A well-balanced wine.
• Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba 2017
  • Sandy, engaging tannins that caress the lips. Classic notes of violets that highlight the elegance of Nebbiolo. A good Nebbiolo!

Podere Sette

It might have been inevitable: an energetic exhibitor, a less enthusiastic one, and following the trend, the third stand had an absent exhibitor. Fortunately, the missing person left the bottles behind: I had two tastings in mind, and both impressed me greatly.

• L’Invidio Bolgheri Rosso
  • A typical Bolgheri aromatic profile, with intense tertiary aromas and dense red fruits, perhaps raspberries, with a pulpy texture. The angular tannins persist pleasantly for a long time.
• Il Superbo Bolgheri Superiore
  • Smoky scents of speck and meat, enriched by cherry notes on the palate. Robust and grainy tannins fill the mouth and dissolve slowly into a pleasant powderiness.

Simone Capecci

Here, I witnessed a somewhat unfortunate encounter between two worlds: a representative of a mid-to-high range winery dealing with a retailer selling low-end products.

• Retailer: “Come on, let me taste this impossible white wine.”
• Representative: “Why impossible?”
• R: “Because you told me it’s expensive.”
• Rep: “Oh, expensive… 30€.”
• R: “Before taxes?”
• Rep: “Before taxes.”
• R: “You’re crazy.”
• Rep: “Look, in some Michelin-starred restaurants, they sell it for 110€ a bottle.”
• R: “Okay, sure, in Vienna you might sell it for 110€ a bottle. But I’m from Linz, we’re like the Taranto of Austria. Any wine over 4€ doesn’t work for us.”
• Rep: “Just the bottle, cork, and capsule alone cost us 2.5€. But at least, do you like the wine?”
• R: “Since you asked, I think you’re better at making reds.”

Not every encounter is love at first sight.

• Ciprea Pecorino 2023
  • Vegetal notes of bark, with depth and density typical of central Italian wines. Powerful yet agile, it dries the mouth pleasantly. A genuinely interesting wine.
• Mvria 2019
  • Pecorino with submerged cap maceration, with intense aromas of overripe fruits. It works well (this is the “impossible” wine).
• Picus Rosso Piceno Superiore 2022
  • An easy-drinking wine that somewhat resembles Barbera, with hints of bell pepper (both fruit and leaf). Lively tannins and a solid acidity, with a noticeable intensity.
• Fedus Sangiovese 2022
  • A balanced Sangiovese with notes of red fruits. Well-crafted, though without particular surprises; it’s a solid choice.
• Qvinta Regio 2019
  • 100% Montepulciano with hints of chili and bell pepper. The tannins are engaging yet silky on the gums. It aspires to a lot.

Cantine Terredagoli

I didn’t expect much from Cantine Terredagoli, nor did the representative seem particularly confident. Yet, here I tasted one of the best wines of the day: a basic Chianti, not the Classico.

• Chianti
  • Rich in ripe red fruits, almost like an overripe plum. Deeply fruity and intriguing on the nose, with a medium body. The tannins are particularly sandy, leaving a dusty sensation on the palate, just as one expects from a Chianti.
• Chianti Classico
  • Depth on the nose, but then the palate is a bit hasty and rushed. Tannic.

Masot

• Lacrima di Kòme Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Brut
  • A light and fun Prosecco, with fresh notes of lemon and a hint of crushed stone. A fresh wine.

Ongaresca

• Merlot
  • Lots of wood, it fills the mouth but leaves nothing interesting. It’s average for its overworked style.

Spadafora

• Selezione Limitada Schietto Merlot 2016
  • A fresh and well-balanced Merlot, with notes of red fruits that bring liveliness. A wine that is agile and quick, with immediate appeal and intelligent construction.

Maugeri

I expected a lot from this winery, and in general from Sicilian wines: I always hope to fall in love with them, but despite the hype, I haven’t yet found one that completely captivates me (as reconfirmed during a tasting at Pub Klemo). Maybe I was hoping for a higher average quality, but one of the wines offered was indeed exceptional.

• Contrada Volpare Bianco Superiore 2023
  • Aromas of pineapple and honey, with a dense texture but pleasant freshness. A balanced wine that lacks a distinctive note to make it memorable.
• Contrada Volpare Frontebosco Etna Bianco Superiore 2023
  • Similar to Volpare Bianco Superiore, with hints of pineapple, honey, and a touch of thyme. Dense and fresh, but without a distinctive character.
• Frontemare Contrada Praino Bianco Superiore 2023
  • Similar to the previous ones, but the salinity adds much more in terms of depth, character, and sea aromas.
• Contrada Volpare Rosato 2023
  • An almost non-existent aromatic profile, with just a faint hint of rose.

Barrus

• Rosso 2019
  • A wine with engaging tannins and a clay-like texture that envelops the mouth. Spicy notes emerge on the palate, making it pleasant and easy to drink.

Nannì

• Origini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
  • A relatively dense Verdicchio, with an important structure and initial floral notes. The wine gradually opens up, offering moderate length but without standing out.

Benito Ferrara

• Vigna Cicogna Greco di Tufo 2023
  • A full-bodied Greco di Tufo, with a dry finish that leaves a pleasant tannic sensation in the mouth. A structured wine that dries the palate with elegance.

Quartomoro

• Trebinas Bovale
  • Characterized by a pronounced alcoholic note that limits its freshness. Unfortunately, the profile is somewhat heavy.

Sassotondo

• Sassotondo Monte Calvo Ciliegiolo
  • A Ciliegiolo with fruity notes, with hints of blackberries and perhaps a touch of currant. It has a medium body, making it harmonious and well-balanced.

Torre dei Beati

• Mazzamurello Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2020
  • A lively and agile Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, with hints of currant that add freshness. Savory and very pleasant on the palate, it’s a wine that impresses with its immediacy.

I Custodi

• Saeculare Etna Rosso Riserva 2013
  • An Etna Rosso with complex and ancient notes, reminiscent of scorched earth and the scent of a cellar. Perhaps slightly reduced, with great richness and depth.

Tenute Luspada

• Nyroca Negroamaro
  • Intense aromas of plum on the nose, but on the palate, it feels ephemeral despite having strong tannins. A wine that initially impresses, but quickly dissipates.

Philonianum

• Susumaniello
  • More intriguing than the Nyroca, with a more hidden and complex character. An engaging and flavorful wine that invites you to discover its nuances.

Masada

• Negroamaro
  • A rich Negroamaro with notes of coffee and black tea. It has a firm structure, and the tannins are particularly tough, giving it a robust and intense profile.

Az. Agricola Sosol Ivan

Not the best Collio (which we have discussed in various articles) that you might come across.

• Ribolla Gialla 2023
  • A rather light wine without particular depth. The structure feels empty, leaving a fleeting sensation on the palate.
• Friulano 2023
  • Characterized by a slight hint of botrytis, although the exhibitor couldn’t tell me the percentage present. Shows notes of apricot, almond, and grapefruit but could offer more.
• Bianco Borjač 2023
  • A wine that appears somewhat expressionless, without notable nuances or complexity.
• Merlot 2022
  • A Merlot rich in red fruits, with a vibrant and aromatic profile.

Giuseppe Lonardi

• Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2018
  • An Amarone that exudes the power of dark fruits and toasted notes. In the long finish, the intense flavor of dried plum emerges. Great Amarone strength.
• Privilegia Rosso Veronese 2020
  • A wine with a jammy profile that is somewhat unconvincing.

La Crusset

• Reserva Brut Nature
  • A commercial-style Cava with artificial notes of yellow apple. Pleasant perlage, but the profile remains conventional.

Summary

• Best Wine: Brunello di Montalcino Costa di Monte 2019 from Tenuta di Sesta
• Other Notable Wines: Brunello di Montalcino 2019 from Tenuta di Sesta, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018 from Tenuta di Sesta, Chianti from Cantine Terredagoli, Frontemare Contrada Praino Bianco Superiore 2023 from Maugeri, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2018 from Giuseppe Lonardi
• Best Winery: Tenuta di Sesta
• Most Impressive Exhibitor: Podere Sette