Selezione Italia Vienna 2025 – Wines, spirits and a new audience

This is the first year in which Christian Bauer and Marina Rebora organize three “Selezione Italia” events in a single year (including the thirtieth-anniversary edition): certainly a demanding effort, but judging by the attendance, I hope it pays off. The May 26 edition, hosted at the Hilton near Stadtpark, was partially open to the non-specialized public as well: an innovation that I personally appreciate, because it is a way to bring enthusiasts closer to the wineries, especially those in northern Italy where many Austrians vacation annually.

And now the wines and the wineries, which I found decidedly interesting.

Sancin

I already knew the estate—I had purchased from them. I recall a somewhat unlucky visit to the cellar, but when I found decent quality in the selection box I bought three years ago, in these tastings I encountered a significant offering. The improvement does not surprise me: they clearly have a vision for their wine and ambition, and they are already a solid reality of the Carso region, which under these premises will continue to improve.

• Glera 2022 – Sancin
  Perhaps insufficient fruit concentration in the mid-palate, but elegant aromas and good structure on the palate. Refreshing, yet able to hold up with a meal.
• Merlot 2021 – Sancin
  A deep and expansive nose: morello cherry, blue fruits, undergrowth, cassis, and the spice of oak. On the palate, it confirms itself as robust and dense, yet graceful. Good tannins and overall balance.

Villa Erbice

• Vigneto Tremenel Amarone della Valpolicella – Villa Erbice
  Autumnal aromas of dry leaves. On the palate emerges the density of the overripe grapes and that somewhat raisin-like note of dried plums. Yet a certain florality permeates the entire wine, creating a contrast that enhances the lively juiciness of each sip. The finish is short and dry, leaving the mouth refreshed.

Marchesi Fumanelli

• Amarone della Valpolicella – Marchesi Fumanelli
  Less appealing than the previous one, rather narrow. There is the raisin-like note of dried plums, cloves, and mushrooms, but it seems to lack concentration.
• Octavius Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva – Marchesi Fumanelli
  Even more evolved than the previous one, with notes of tobacco leaf and macerated cherries.

Boeri Alfonso

• Beviòn Selezione Chardonnay 2023 – Boeri Alfonso
  Simple: aromas of medicinal herbs, stewed apple, and grilled pineapple. Dense, waxy, creamy, and fleshy, but it disappears quickly.
• Pörlapà Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2019 – Boeri Alfonso
  Finally a Barbera in which the liveliness is under control! Aromas of red currant, dark fruits, dried lavender, and bark. Very gripping, chunky tannin that dries the mouth and is felt on the gums. Never winey, it remains fruity, but the structure (it also has a nicely full body) gives it dimension. Almost tar-like finish. Good acidity.
• Ribota Moscato d’Asti 2024 – Boeri Alfonso
  How fun and dangerous in its easy drinkability! Candied orange peel and ripe peach. The palate is refreshing, with a sparkling, delicate, and fine perlage and a good acidity that makes each sip never cloying.

BelColle

• Cuvée Valentina Alta Langa Metodo Classico – BelColle
  Splendid perlage, sparkling in a creamy body. But the aromas—slightly evolved, slightly salty caramel, slightly Champagne—are not incredible.
• Roero Arneis – BelColle
  Yellow apple on the palate and a good acidity that expands horizontally from the tongue. Medium body. Almost no finish.
• Passato Barolo – Bosio
  I don’t know what added value the organic label from the BelColle winery contributes to the company’s brand. But this beautiful Barolo has a very pleasant pale color. Good fruit density, primary aromas (red and black berries) and slightly spicy, engaging tannins on the sides of the mouth, and a full-on cola finish that lingers for a long time. Medium-full body. If properly priced, it may be worth it.
• Bussia Barolo 2019 – BelColle
  More closed and tannic than the previous one, but with a similar structure. Earthy aromas of pine resin and juniper berries. Very solid tannins and a long, astringent finish.

Fossacolle

Fossacolle has shown an exceptionally outstanding lineup: all character‐driven wines, with tremendous fruit intensity and a clear direction. Engaging.

• Brunello di Montalcino 2020 – Fossacolle
  The fruit dominates, the full cherry. The tannins are dusty and elegant. Very drinkable but also of a fascinating structure thanks to the medium body.
• Brunello di Montalcino 2019 – Fossacolle
  More serious than the previous one (it is the vintage). Here black plums, but also leather, burnt earth, and red orange peel. Dusty and elegant tannins and a contemplative allure.
• Rosso di Toscana ‘Riesci’ 2021 – Fossacolle
  Pure ink. Chinato dominates the nose and palate, along with that burnt‐earth note typical of Tuscan reds, and touches of mocaccino. A very dense and inscrutable body. It will come into its own.

Tenuta di Artimino

• Grumarello Carmignano Riserva 2020 – Tenuta di Artimino
  Powerful aromas of Tuscan reds, burnt earth, mulberries and mint. Attractive.

Andreola

I sometimes struggle with Prosecco, because prices have risen over the years both for quality-driven offerings and for those that are blatantly commercial. So I venture into it with trepidation – but Andreola’s wines are truly excellent and have shown that there is definitely a place and an occasion for well-made Prosecco.

• Bollé Rosé Extra Dry N.V. – Andreola
  Very pink, with aromas of freshly cut strawberry. Bubbles are frothy, filling the palate. Very enjoyable and fresh.
• Col del Forno Rive di Refrontolo Valdobbiadene – Andreola
  The best Prosecco I’ve tasted in a long time. Fresh aromas of lemon zest, pear, and hawthorn. Elegant perlage, not overly showy. Direct, with a balanced and harmonious palate and real freshness!
• Dirupo Valdobbiadene Extra Dry – Andreola
  Here too, an elegant perlage; on the palate, notes of pastry and yellow peach. A Prosecco suitable for pairing with a meal.

Domini Veneti

• Or’Jago Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – Domini Veneti
  Floral, closed, and with a light body.

Silvio Carta

The presence of spirits from Silvio Carta truly enchanted me. It is something I had also noticed during a visit to Pub Klemo: “off-track” wines, such as fortified wines or vermouth, represent a parallel but impossible-to-ignore path for those who love wine. Perhaps because there is still a richness of aromas, a chance to challenge one’s sense of smell and variety: everything we love about wine.

• Servito Vermouth Bianco N.V. – Silvio Carta
  What a great discovery! Star anise on the nose. It evolves on the palate, with a perception of pomace. Fresh, yet elegant.
• Vermouth Rosso N.V. – Silvio Carta
  Out of this world. Salty caramel on the nose (due to aging), along with fruitcake, dark honey, and dried apricots. Powerful and warm like a fortified wine, but without being one, it has an intrinsic lightness that makes it dangerous. The palate is intense and silky, evolving endlessly and finishing with nutty notes.

Widum Baumann

• Offweiss Gemischter Satz 2024 – Widum Baumann
  I fear I have grasped the eccentric intent, but one perceives white fruit and perhaps hay in a medium-bodied and slightly oily texture. Too much…

What struck me about Selezione Italia 2025

• Best product: Vermouth Rosso N.V. – Silvio Carta
• Best wine: Brunello di Montalcino – Fossacolle (both vintages)
• Best producer: Silvio Carta
• Most represented wine: Amarone

The organizers of Selezione Italia have also began Barolo & Friends 2026 and Selezione Italia XXXI.