Schioppettino 2022 by Marco Sara – Review

I have a clear idea of the types of red wines I like: they are the ones that express a variety in its terroir. I’m less attracted to those that primarily showcase the winemaking style (read: heavy use of oak). Of course, many people enjoy the aromas imparted by oak, even when excessive, and I too think there’s a time, a dish, and a moment (usually midweek) when this type of wine fits well. But when it comes to red wines that truly excite me, we’re talking about those where the winemaker’s hand supports and aids but doesn’t dominate.

This is exactly why I had high expectations for Marco Sara’s 2022 Schioppettino. The producer follows just the type of philosophy that attracts me, and the variety has those spicy notes that I always find very appealing in a red. Whether it’s Syrah or the splendid Blaufränkisch from Burgenland, spiciness can make a good red unforgettable.

It’s also worth noting that, for those familiar with Friuli’s wine shops, Marco Sara’s Schioppettino is not an unknown name. The producer has been very smart in positioning himself as “organic” but not extreme, making him appealing to both the indie market and the more mainstream one (though which of the two is the “organic” one I can no longer say). Moreover, the price of the bottle is absolutely fair, which has certainly contributed to its spread.

For reviews of other indie wines, click here.

When I visited Marco Sara, I was very impressed by the Schioppettino, and I described it as follows:

A fresh interpretation, as it should be, of Schioppettino. Light spice (given the vintage) and lots of fruit on the nose—pomegranate but also cherry and raspberry—beautifully rounded and ripe yet still incredibly fresh. In the mouth, excellent acidity, simple tannins, and a sober finish. A wine of terroir, and here too, I can’t wait.

Characteristics of Marco Sara’s Schioppettino

Here are the main features of Marco Sara’s Schioppettino:

• Denomination: Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC
• Grape Variety: 100% Schioppettino
• Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy
• Alcohol Content: 13.5%
• Vineyards: Vines aged between 20 and 60 years, situated on clayey soils rich in marl and sandstone. Organic cultivation.
• Vinification: 20-day maceration in steel with spontaneous fermentation. Unfiltered.
• Aging: 12 months in second-use barriques.
• Production Philosophy: Artisan wine with indigenous yeasts and a biological approach.

My impression of Marco Sara’s 2022 Schioppettino

The 2022 Schioppettino from Marco Sara presents itself with a violet-red color with ruby highlights. Slightly disappointing. On the nose, notes of pepper, blackberry, and a slight hint of acetone stand out. It’s broad, but the black pepper note dominates. The body is supple, but it seems to lack character: the acidity is low, the tannins light and velvety in the center of the palate, with an overall sense of imprecision. I was hoping to feel more of the terroir. The finish is astringent, slightly unripe, and only later does it evolve from the black pepper notes to those of mulberry, gaining greater depth and a satisfying length, with the typical liveliness of Schioppettino reflected in the fruit. It’s a Schioppettino that didn’t manage to become sharp enough to convey a real sense of place, as the producer intended. Nevertheless, it pairs well with meat, despite its power and lack of precision.

In short, there was a significant difference between the bottle I drank at home and the tasting I did at the winery. That’s understandable; these are not wines made from a cookie-cutter approach. For certain wineries, it’s easier to make great wines than to consistently produce good ones. This is part of their charm and one of the reasons why they attract me the most. When consistency in results also arrives, it’s a big celebration.

Sure, there’s a bit of regret for having drunk a good wine, but one that was too imprecise and unripe to be truly successful. No worries though, other bottles from this producer have definitely engaged me more, and I’ll report on them.

I had better luck with Monte della Guardia, which I reviewed here.