I’ve already said it and I confirm it: MondoVino, the huge tasting annually organised by Wein & CO, is the best event for wine enthusiasts that Vienna offers. Sure, this year Oh, Bordeaux! by Falstaff offered, on average, wines of a higher level – but the breadth of the two proposals is not comparable. The wines on display at MondoVino are very many, from almost all relevant wine regions of the planet.
Then of course, MondoVino is a Temple market. Crowds of people – this year luckily I did not notice bachelor parties, replaced by a group of students (I believe) with a guide who explained the wines through a microphone and earpieces. The inescapable and very sad camera that takes 360° photos. A melancholy wheel of fortune managed by an even more melancholy attendant.
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And yet. Yet the wines are truly interesting, in all price ranges (and there are also very high-level offerings). The paid bar offers glasses impossible to find elsewhere. This year even the stand of the new acquisitions of Wein & Co. (after all Mondo Vino is nothing more than the exhibition of the enormous catalogue of this chain of wine shops) had interesting products and stepped out of the apartheid of the little corner where it had been relegated last year. The natural wine stand was a bit poorer than at Mondo Vino 2024, but I don’t struggle to make peace with that.
Another truly strong element of the event is the professionalism with which it is conducted: it really happens rarely to find a stand without staff or bottles that should have been there and instead are sold out. This, those who frequent these events know, does not happen often. This year’s catalogue was poorly drafted, in the sense that some producers had bottles not listed in the catalogue, but especially bottles listed in the catalogue were then not present at the event – but all in all it’s a small flaw. And now we begin the tour of the world in the many facets of Mondo Vino.
Champagne & Other Bubbles
If it hadn’t been for my wife I wouldn’t have spent so much time in this area – and perhaps we both regretted it a bit. Sure, I wanted to re-taste the wines of Louis Roederer that had impressed me so much last year, but they disappointed me. In this stand, I didn’t find anything wrong or terrible, but no memorable product.
Louis Roederer opened the curtain with three different interpretations of its style: the Brut Premier NV and the Brut 2016 show a balanced structure but not very lively, where freshness is there but expressiveness struggles to emerge. More interesting the vintage wine, thanks to a saline streak.
Duval-Leroy, instead, brought a well-constructed range: the Brut Réserve NV presents itself composed, with lively bubbles and a balance between fruit and evolution. The Blanc de Blancs 2008 stands out for its precision and savoury finish. The Rosé Prestige moves between wild strawberries and forest notes, maintaining a nice finesse of mousse.
Tarlant with its Zero Brut Nature displays remarkable composure, but perhaps a bit too discreet in its aromas.
Eric Rodez plays on nuances: the Rosé Ambonnay NV is gentle and chalky, with an echo of rhubarb. The Blanc de Noirs Ambonnay NV adds some depth, staying on sober tones between fruit and bread crust.
Pere Ventura Cavas offered two Cavas that interpret the Catalan terroir well: the Tresor Gran Reserva 2021 is generous with energetic bubbles, while the Gran Vintage 2016 raises the bar with greater cleanliness and an elegant finish.
The Muskateller Brut by Harkamp was one of the most distinctive aromatic moments: floral, tonic, crisp and very long.
Pisoni, with its Blanc de Blanc Brut, proposes a straight and clean Chardonnay, but without particular highlights.
H. Goutorbe brought three expressions with a very classic profile: the Cuvée Tradition NV is simple and fresh, the Brut Rosé Grand Cru adds a touch of almost elusive elegance, and the Cuvée Prestige Premier Cru NV is well centred, fresh and floral, with some hazelnut notes.
Lower Austria
Here lies the crème de la crème of Austria: Wachau and, to a lesser extent, Kamptal. Wachau did not have Emmerich Knoll, a certain presence in the last two years – but other important names were there and certainly showed all their value. In Kamptal instead I tested two producers I already knew, the first confirmed itself, the second surprised me positively. These whites however, especially when young as in this case, struggle to impose themselves in such a noisy and chaotic event like Mondo Vino – instead, they need time, both when tasting them and for evolving in the bottle, so it was a satisfying stop (as always), but it showed once again how much they would deserve a more suitable tasting environment.
Tegernseerhof offered a broad overview of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in Wachau. The Federspiel – Dürnsteiner and Ried Superin – focus on herbal freshness, but only the second manages to build a more rounded body. The Smaragd of Bergdistel and Loibenberg maintain the house style: straight, herbal, but with Loibenberg distinguishing itself for body and Mediterranean nuances. The Kellerberg Riesling makes you wait: it has everything, but it’s still closed and astringent.
Josef Fischer with Ried Kreuzberg 2023 offers a mature and spicy Grüner Veltliner, but not complicated. Good raw material.
Franz Hirtzberger dominates the scene with elegance: Honivogl 2024 is a complex symphony of richness, depth and persistence, an already memorable bottle. Axpoint is more immediate but just as precise. The glyceric Riesling – Ried Steinporz – flexes its muscles, in a rich texture to decipher over time.
Rudi Pichler signs three high-level interpretations: the Weissenkirchner Achleithen 2024 strikes for generosity and tactile quality, while Kollmütz is more ready, creamy and tropical. The Kirchweg Riesling develops between richness and precision, with evident potential.
Josef Jamek confirms himself great with the Riesling Ried Klaus 2024, all tension and verticality, which will evolve beautifully. His Grüner Veltliner, Stein am Rain and Achleiten, are aromatic, pleasantly herbal, but less incisive.
Jurtschitsch brings us to Kamptal with Ried Lamm 2022, where structure and ripeness marry acidity. The Loiserberg Riesling 2023 moves on fruity notes balanced by classicism. The Brut Rosé NV is simple and easy-drinking.
Weingut Bründlmayer surprised me: Ried Lamm 2022 is a white with plenty of potential, combining rigour and complexity. The Chardonnay Steinberg 2023 finds good expressiveness in the use of oak. Great also the Blanc de Noirs 2019: intense, broad, autolytic: more Champagne than many Champagnes tasted.
Italy
On the Italian side I instead focused on Tuscany, finding surprises and disappointments. In Veneto instead there were only the latter. It’s sad, but abroad we are often only Prosecco (and Amarone), Tuscan reds and Piedmont reds. Reductionist, but it is what it is.
Tenuta Il Poggione shows solidity with the Brunello 2020, broad, deep, with an elegance already achieved. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli 2019 instead surprises less: fine in floral tones but more hollow. The Vin Santo Sant’Antimo 2009 ends with an oxidative expression that does not reach full harmony.
Fanti is the producer that disappointed me: I wanted to buy from them after a tasting in a Viennese wine shop, but I won’t. The Rosso di Montalcino 2023 impressed me: rich, meaty and layered. The Brunello 2020 instead lags behind: correct but lacking the vigour one would expect.
Speri offers very little in terms of quality: the Valpolicella Classico 2024 is terribly “perfumey”, the Ripasso 2022 improves slightly thanks to a more present body. With the Amarone Monte Sant’Urbano 2020 the typical notes arrive, but complexity is missing.
Caparsa proved to be one of the protagonists, with two benchmark Chianti 2021: the base is direct, pleasantly rustic and perfect at the table. The Caparsino Riserva has instead more grit, sculpted tannins and spicy nuances. The Rosso di Caparsa is a small outsider: round but lively, with a rustic soul.
Fattoria Le Pupille performs well on all fronts: Poggio Valente 2022 is a complete Sangiovese, while Saffredi 2022 is a structured Supertuscan with a nice counterpoint of freshness. The Morellino Riserva 2022 shows a wild and slender soul, with excellent acidity.
Inama offers two Soave that raise doubts: the Foscarino 2023 plays on volcanic and smoky notes, but remains sharp and not well centred. I Palchi 2022 is rounder and fruitier, but risks losing its identity.
New World
As for the New World, Wein & Co always has good offerings. Last year I fell in love with Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, and this year I couldn’t help re-tasting it, finding it fantastic again. Even the wines of Penfolds impressed me even more than in past years, to the point that an order will surely follow. Less impressive, but still valid, were the South African tastings.
Tyrrell’s offers two wines that represent their categories well: the Vat 47 Chardonnay 2022 is rich and aromatic, with a well-present acidity. The Vat 1 Semillon 2019 confirms the estate’s reputation, with evolving complexity and a fascinating flavour profile, all nuances and depth.
Penfolds shows muscle and finesse together: the Bin 311 Chardonnay 2024 is impeccable, precise and polished, but never cold. The Bin 28 Shiraz 2023 is a declaration of well-tamed power: generous, chocolatey, spicy. The Bin 389 2023 blends Cabernet and Shiraz, but the combination is less successful: perhaps too different to coexist. Pungent finish but solid structure.
Hartenberg offers a Chardonnay 2023 extremely clean, perhaps too textbook. The Shiraz 2021 is more vibrant, with a sweet and spicy profile, while the Gravel Hill 2019 brings greater elegance, with a composed palate and integrated tannins.
Boekenhoutskloof stays on more contained tones: the Syrah 2022 plays on tension and austerity but lacks immediacy. The Chocolate Block 2023 picks up the same theme with more evolved notes, but still not unforgettable: different approach, similar result.
Spain & Portugal
Last year I almost exhausted the possible tastings at this stand. This year instead I limited myself and re-tasted the always excellent products of Rioja Alta and those of Niepoort. The latter, in my opinion, is a giant of Port, while his incursions in the world of still wines leave me at most indifferent.
La Rioja Alta remains faithful to its classic style: Viña Alberdi 2020 is fresh and pleasant, with its typical notes of red fruit and coconut. Viña Ardanza 2019 is more evolved, juicy and spicy, while the Gran Reserva 904 2015 adds softness and an indulgent, spicy profile, between autumn and dried fruit.
Niepoort moves on several fronts. The whites Redoma Branco 2024 and Reserva Branco 2023 aim for austerity but fail to convey depth. The second is better for texture and coherence. The Dirk Niepoort ADN Alvarinho 2024 is an agile and direct white, with a lively citrus note but monodimensional.
The reds (Redoma Tinto 2021, Vertente 2023) show freshness, simple fruit and easy drinkability. The Vertente is a perfect convivial wine, for a cheerful table.
The Madeira Sercial Sir Ceal instead disappoints: too thin, leaves no trace.
Different discourse for the Ports: the Late Bottled Vintage 2020 is young and full of energy, dried fruit, spices, chocolate. Rich but accessible. The Colheita 2010, in both tastings performed, is a small masterpiece: a kaleidoscope of flavours that alternate and chase each other, with a body always full but never static. An endless finish and also a visual beauty.
France
France is not the strong point of Wein & Co, which finds its best successes relying on producers with enormous portfolios such as Gérard Bertrand. Of this estate I have already written and I have loved some of its products, but on this occasion the tastings were a disaster: wines, even high-end, seemed flat and monotonous. I suspect the bottles were too cold. A real shame.
Gérard Bertrand. The Crémant de Limoux 2015 Aigle Impérial disappoints in relation to the price: it recalls a tired Cava, with weak perlage and little energy, also due to the aforementioned overly cold service. The Castellum Sauvignon Blanc 2023 is green, herbal and a bit tight.
Better the Languedoc Cabrières 2022 Clos du Temple, an elegant and measured rosé, with a well-balanced body and a spicy finish, which brushes against class without ever falling into showmanship. Of course, its well-known price seemed unjustified.
Domaine Amélie & Charles Sparr with the Riesling Altenbourg 2022 offers a rich but somewhat disjointed bottle: a lot of fruit, a lot of substance, but without a clear direction. Lively, but awkward.
Styria
Styria has never been my favourite DAC, but more and more often I fall in love with some of its wines. Perhaps my tastes are changing or I’m more attentive in choosing the best of the local production. In this case, all the wines tasted seemed deep, thoughtful and capable of reflecting a terroir which, in the right hands, can offer a lot.
Erwin Sabathi is a rigorous and stylistically coherent interpreter of Styrian Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Sauvignons – Alte Reben 2022 and Kapelle 2021 – move on different but complementary registers: the first is more austere, the second more varietal and dynamic. Both long, elegant and with chiselled acidity. The Chardonnays follow the same trajectory: Alte Reben 2022 is classic, compact and reductive; Kapelle 2021 adds liveliness and an almost floral note without losing precision. The most expressive of the lineup.
Tement offers an interesting portfolio. The Ried Zieregg XT Sauvignon Blanc 2018 is a grand cru but more playful than Sabathi’s wines: fruity, intense, with tropical touches and well-managed residual sweetness. The Blanc de Blancs Grosse Reserve is pure transparency, a clear and essential sip, between flowers, lime and fine, persistent bubbles. Fun closure with the Verjus Apero Rosso, amusing, fruity, almost creamy, with an acidic twist that brings it back to its true nature.
Burgenland
A visit to this stand is always necessary, Burgenland is a truly fascinating region and this time again it did not disappoint. With Heinrich I ventured into the never-too-loved land of hip wines, and I did well. Prieler had already impressed me in the past and this time I fell completely in love.
Heinrich explores the radical character of his natural wines with coherence. The Traminer Roter Freyheit 2022 is a small fascinating anomaly: exotic and spicy nose but dry palate, guided by unexpected acidity. Salzberg 2019 is broad and layered, a complete wine where dark fruit coexists with vegetal notes. The Gabarinza 2019 is more tightened, denser in tannins, but just as generous.
Prieler moves on more chiselled tones: the Goldberg Blaufränkisch 2022 is elegant, deep, with brilliant acidity and precise structure. The Schützner Stein 2022 – a Merlot – shows openness and roundness, but surprises for its dense and juicy core, which captivates. The Marienthal Blaufränkisch 2022 plays on more evocative and aromatic notes but remains more linear and less complex.
New Releases
As mentioned, this year the new releases area was a bit more central and richer than the sad banquet of last year. I tasted something truly interesting, again from the New World. The lack of crowds also allowed a pleasant break.
Mullineux offers two wines that show concentration and excellent raw material. The Old Vines White 2024 is a symphony of fruit and structure: intense, enveloping, full, but also fresh thanks to citrus and with a honeyed touch. The Syrah 2022 is more classic and robust, well made, but less incisive in terms of personality. Correct, but not memorable.
Ikonen Bar
The offering, in this case paid, of this stand is impressive: one can taste rare and precious wines. I like ending the day here, adding amazement to tastings that often have already left me widely satisfied. There are also some small tables to sit at, a pleasant thing in the Great Bazaar of wine.
Pol Roger with the Sir Winston Churchill 2015 offers a Champagne impeccable in construction, elegant and refined, with all the autolytic notes one expects. And yet, perhaps precisely because of the very high expectation, it leaves a sense of composure more than astonishment. Very long, solid, but not exciting.
Kracher with the Nummer 5 Zwischen den Seen TBA 2021 signs a wine that borders on perfection: density, concentration, acidity and a three-dimensional aromatic profile. The magic is all in the mouth, where every element fits without smudges. An unforgettable wine.
My Mondo Vino 2025 Awards
- Best Wine Tasted: Nummer 5 Zwischen den Seen TBA 2021 – Kracher
- Best White Wine: Ried Steinporz Smaragd 2024 – Franz Hirtzberger and Ried Zieregg XT 2018 – Tement
- Best Chardonnay: Bin 311 2024 – Penfolds
- Best Riesling: Ried Steinporz Smaragd 2024 – Franz Hirtzberger
- Best Sauvignon Blanc: Ried Zieregg XT 2018 – Tement
- Best Old Vines White: Old Vines White 2024 – Mullineux
- Best Red Wine: Caparsino Riserva 2021 – Caparsa
- Best Supertuscan: Saffredi 2022 – Fattoria Le Pupille
- Best Chianti: Caparsino Riserva 2021 – Caparsa
- Best Austrian Red Wine: Salzberg 2019 – Heinrich
- Best Blaufränkisch: Goldberg 2022 – Prieler
- Best Traditional Method Sparkling Wine: Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Reserve 2019 – Bründlmayer
- Best Champagne: Blanc de Blancs Prestige Grand Cru 2008 – Duval-Leroy
- Best White Wine: Ried Steinporz Smaragd 2024 – Franz Hirtzberger
- Best Sweet Wine: Nummer 5 Zwischen den Seen TBA 2021 – Kracher
- Best Orange Wine: Traminer Roter Freyheit 2022 – Heinrich
- Best Non-Wine: Verjus Apero Rosso – Tement
- Wine That Depressed Me: Aigle Impérial Crémant de Limoux 2015 – Gérard Bertrand
- Wine I Expected More From: Sir Winston Churchill 2015 – Pol Roger
- Best Producer: Franz Hirtzberger
- Best Region: Lower Austria
- Surprise Producer: Caparsa
- Big Confirmation: Tyrrell’s
- Disappointing Producer: Gérard Bertrand
- Disappointing Region: France
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The best wines, no boring scores
