MarcoSara, making the vineyards speak

The first time I tasted a wine from the MarcoSara winery was at the beloved Ferronato wine shop in Pordenone. Their ErbaAlta was introduced to me as an atypical Friulano, “with something extra.” That something extra is indeed there, so I tried to have some wines shipped to Vienna, but it wasn’t possible. It called for a visit to the winery, which, amidst vacations and various setbacks, came over a year after the initial contact, but it was worth it.

The Territory

The MarcoSara winery is located in Savorgnano del Torre (UD), in the north-western part of the Colli Orientali del Friuli. With only 800 inhabitants and about 8 wineries, Savorgnano del Torre perfectly embodies the peasant soul of this DOC. Marco Sara tells me about the wines in demijohns, “very different from the sophisticated Austro-Hungarian tradition of Collio” (Marco Sara is a name and surname, not the names of two spouses). Collio is, of course, the reference point with which these lands interact.

But here, there is no trace of tourists from Cormons or a place that could potentially accommodate them. Even the province changes, and the faded charm of Gorizia gives way to Udine, which is less than twenty minutes away from Savorgnano. So, there are hills, yes, and noble ones considering the proximity to Ramandolo (and its highly Instagrammed osteria), but these are truly the first undulations above the Friulian plain. And it’s from here that MarcoSara’s Malvasia comes.

“Oh! I didn’t know you also made Malvasia!”

“It’s an experiment. I bought some clusters from a farmer nearby and fermented it in concrete. Let’s see how it goes. This is a 2023.”

For me, it’s quite good, characterized by a enveloping softness and a slight acidity, with distinctive notes of orange peel and flowers on the nose. Its silky texture might be slightly excessive, but it offers a slightly citrusy finish that invites tasting.

The Company

“Up until twenty years ago, we only made wine in demijohns, in addition to milk and other products. As I was saying, there has never been a tradition of purely viticultural companies here. Then the dairy industry went into crisis, and after my father’s death, I took over the company, and we started bottling.”

Marco talks a lot and conveys the passion he has not only for his work but also for his territory. He highlights the peculiarities of the Friulano from the Colli Orientali, emphasizing the notes of Sauvignonasse, with green accents that stand out distinctly from the fruity Friulani of Cormons. This characteristic gives the wine a strong vegetal note, typical of the area, which underlines its territorial origin.

Marco brings out the characteristics of his eight hectares of vineyards (both on hills and in the plains) in the Friulano Erba Alta, which is characterized by the use of a percentage of noble rot grapes, a practice that may not be unique but one that he certainly values.

“I had no idea that there was noble rot in these areas.”

“Look, anyone who harvests Friulano here knows noble rot—also because by the time the grapes ripen, a bit of mold has already formed. The challenge, until recently, was to convince the harvesters not to throw it away because they thought it was just moldy. But good noble rot is recognizable; after all, the climate here is conducive. It rains a bit too much, but the climate is conducive. As I was saying, noble rot is easily recognizable compared to “bad” mold because it dries the cluster, and sometimes you even see it protruding from the skin. And it has the great advantage of giving rounder and softer wines compared to the green Friulani of the area.”

And indeed, the Erba Alta is a wine that expresses remarkable density while maintaining the floral and herbaceous characteristics typical of the varietal, but enriched by the presence of noble rot. It may have impressed me less than the first time I tasted it, but the purchased bottles will tell more.

In the vineyard, MarcoSara uses organic practices.

“Is it difficult to stay in line with organic principles?”

“No, essentially organic farming leads you to plant vineyards more suited to your territory. The only one where it’s still challenging, and where I’m even considering introducing two systemic treatments, is the Schioppettino. It’s really tough there; the native vineyards are beautiful, but if you cultivate them, you understand why they were abandoned for so long.”

“Because Schioppettino is very fragile, right?”

“Yes, and it gives its characteristic spicy note only in unfortunate years, like 2022, for example, which saw hail and a thousand troubles and has a beautiful spiciness. 2023, on the other hand, which was a beautiful vintage, is more fruity. And then the soil; Schioppettino needs acidic soil; you notice it because the best specimens, even in Prepotto, grow in areas where there are also ferns and chestnuts. It loses a bit with the rising pH of the soil.”

The Cellar

In the cellar, Marco prefers the use of steel and wood as tools to enhance the peculiarities of the grapes and preserve their authenticity. His philosophy aims not to create “super” wines but to valorize the authenticity and identity of the territory, like producers such as Skok with Zabura or Prieler, tasted at A Glass of Burgenland in Vienna 2024.

“There was a time, twenty years ago, when critics exalted “super” wines. The super White, the super Tuscan, and so on. But not all wines have that profile; especially the whites from these areas are sharp, precise, despite the low acidity. If you change their essence, you end up making a “beverage,” which is fine, but it’s not that wine. Schioppettino is a versatile wine; restaurateurs tell me it works well chilled in summer and with heavier dishes in winter. If you load it, you’re doing something else. There are also producers who bring it to 15°!”

And here I realize that Marco is also an elegant person because I quickly recall the name of the producer with the “cannon” Schioppettino, and he smiles, giving me the satisfaction of getting it right, without speaking ill of his colleague.

Certainly, his Schioppettino 2023 has a less bold profile and offers a fresh and faithful interpretation of the variety. In this vintage, the spiciness emerges less, while on the nose, fresh fruit notes like pomegranate, cherry, and raspberries prevail. The wine is round and ripe but maintains excellent freshness thanks to excellent acidity in the mouth. The tannins are discreet, and the finish is sober but satisfying. Once again, it confirms itself as an authentic territorial wine, arousing great anticipation for the purchased bottles.

Note, at home the Schioppettino impressed me way less.

Another thing Marco doesn’t particularly like is maceration.

“In my opinion, we’re making a mistake in Friuli with wines like Ribolla, for example, which outsiders can’t tell if it’s a sparkling wine derived from high-yield vines, an orange wine, or a still wine. In my view, Ribolla is an entry-level wine; the rest creates confusion.”

“I have an allergy to orange wines. Some are really interesting, but after a glass, do you feel like having another? Usually, absolutely not.”

“Orange wines enhance the skin through maceration, which in turn enhances the grape variety. But the grape variety is only a part of the wine; it’s the ‘elementary school’ of wine. Then there are the middle and high schools, and those are provided by the terroir. Enhancing the grape variety is like glorifying elementary school.”

Nicely explained and a metaphor to reuse.

“Many times, I think there is also the hand of the winemaker, who seeks technically well-made wines but not in line with the raw material.”

“Yes, then you know, there are also good winemakers, it must be said. The important thing is to be honest about who did what because then the discerning consumer realizes if you don’t know what you’re selling. We also use indigenous yeasts, which maintain the varietal profile, making the wine less round than selected ones.”

I don’t necessarily share the hype for indigenous yeasts; it seems like an exaltation of chance (and sometimes chaos), but surely Marco knows his wines better than anyone else.

Then the proposal that made this beautiful visit truly memorable: “If you want, I can take you to see a vineyard that I’m renovating at Monte della Guardia.”

Monte della Guardia

We follow Marco’s van to Monte della Guardia: my wife at the wheel, and I with the baby in a carrier. Monte della Guardia is a hill, a toponym, and the ambition of Marco and other producers who own land in that area. Despite bureaucratic challenges, they nurture the dream of creating a wine that bears the name of this place.

“Because in the end, yes, the French, if you want, brag about it, but they’re right to call the wines by the names of the area of origin, because it’s the territory that makes the wine.”

“Beautiful area here.”

“Yes, I’m fond of this place because I worked here for my family since I was a child, so I wanted to buy the vineyard. Think that the vineyard in question was owned by eight owners, one of whom had assets frozen due to legal issues. It was quite a job to take it over; at one point, I was even advised not to touch the vines to avoid getting tangled up in legal issues myself.”

The vineyard is indeed splendid and is based on terraces built in the thirties of the twentieth century, which will be preserved. Marco shows us the marls and sandstones that emerged during the renovation work: they are the basis of the so-called Ponca, or Flysch of Cormons.

“See? The Ponca is sandstones, that is, compacted sands, and marls, compacted clays, layered on top of each other. Where sandstones prevail, the wines are softer, less refined. The limestone in the marl, on the other hand, is what gives the salty element, sharper if you will, and precise to the wine. The roots of the plants wedge into the ground up to the marls, and then with a mechanism I don’t know, they transmit this taste, which is called mineral (but no one has ever tasted a mineral) to the wine.”

I knew about the Ponca, but Marco explains it very well. And it’s always nice to hear someone say “a mechanism I don’t know”; it gives the impression that the speaker only says what they know. And I’m also pleased to hear the term “mineral” being somewhat debunked, well debunked by Alex Maltman.

During the vineyard renovation, one goal is to keep the soil intact without disturbing too much earth, as any modification could compromise the wine’s profile. Monte della Guardia is a blend composed of 80% Friulano and the remaining 20% Picolit, a choice that Marco considers particularly intriguing because Picolit brings acidity, giving depth to the wine. The last bottled vintage has been in barrels and undergone malolactic fermentation, but it’s a “work in progress” wine, as Marco himself defines it.

For me, it emerged as the king of the day. On the nose, it stands out for the freshness of lemon, but on the palate, the influence of malolactic fermentation, wood, and Picolit give the wine a surprising complexity. Notes of ripe and enveloping yellow peach emerge, accompanied by hints of honey. The finish is long and satisfying, supported by excellent acidity. This wine promises great things.

I then tasted Monte della Guardia again and reviewed it here.

Before saying goodbye, Marco leads us to a small sandstone house that he is restoring and that is located right in the middle of the vineyard. Despite being aware that this venture will not bring great economic benefits, he lives it with intense passion, considering it a true labor of love, in line with the spirit of Monte della Guardia itself and that is with the precise idea of making their vineyards speak, with competence and intentionality that I can’t wait to taste again at home.

Bottles purchased:

• Malvasia
• Friulano Erba Alta x2
• Monte della Guardia x2
• Schioppettino
• Verduzzo
• Picolit

Cost: 165€

Philosophically similar to Marco Sara, in my opinion, is Podere Ranieri, which I am recounting my visit to and my opinions about their wines. Here we also talk about Syrah, which is similar in some ways to Schioppettino. If Marco’s skepticism about Ribolla’s identity left you curious, Ribolla Gialla and Its Price explores exactly how this unsettled variety fits into the broader landscape of Collio and Brda.