The Malvasia of Picech and the Genealogy of Collio

This is an article I’ve wanted to write for a long time because it concerns my favorite wine region: Collio. In my opinion, to truly understand Collio, one must know its genealogy.

The Genealogy of Collio

What do we mean by the genealogy of Collio? The genealogy of Collio is the division of its producers into historical periods, where they left their mark, shaping how Collio is perceived externally through their unique styles. The genealogy of Collio has three levels:

1. The Kings
2. The Vassals
3. The Heirs

The Kings

The story of Collio is well known: after World War II, factories, more than fields, provided steady income for the local population. Although the wines of Gorizia had a great reputation since the Austro-Hungarian Empire, vineyard work wasn’t highly sought after. It was Livio Felluga — a mythical figure, considered in some ways the father of modern Collio, a man of Italian Istrian descent, a veteran of both wars, and a prisoner of the English in Libya and Scotland — who believed in the potential of these hills. He purchased semi-abandoned land in the Rosazzo area, and the rest is history.

Others, such as Mario Schiopetto, followed his lead by investing in wine production. Schiopetto inherited an inn and vineyards, choosing to focus on the latter. These pioneers, aided by critiques from Luigi Veronelli, who fell in love with the sharp and precise whites produced in this corner of Friuli, helped launch Collio onto the global stage.

Although Livio Felluga and Mario Schiopetto are no longer with us (and not even Tocai, nomenclature-wise), their large companies continue to bear their names, exporting Collio’s wine and reputation on a grand scale. While large enterprises like these may not warm the hearts of those who favor small, emerging businesses, their contributions to both style and the land are undeniable.

Who are the Kings of Collio? Livio Felluga and Mario Schiopetto.

What style of wine do the Kings of Collio produce? Sharp, precise, clear.

The Vassals

Let’s now focus on Cormons, the capital of Collio but not its only expression. The Vassals are winemakers of a younger generation than the Kings, who, inheriting vineyards, seized the opportunity created by the Kings’ work to launch their own quality wines. They demonstrated that with the right skills, one could stand out.

The styles of these producers vary greatly. Franco Toros excels at integrating wood into whites; Dario Raccaro’s wines (especially the Malvasia) possess a powerful essentiality that leaves a lasting impression, and Sandro Princic’s (Doro Princic) opulent bottles remind me of the whites from Wachau. Though different, these three producers each found their unique style, pushing Collio’s boundaries while enriching it. Their wines may be vertical and precise but are also rich, essential, or opulent. This isn’t mere interpretation but evolution.

While the region was “invented” by others, the Vassals explored and expanded its potential, infinitely enriching Collio. Today, Toros, Raccaro, and Princic are no longer “young,” but as people say in Cormons’ wine shop, they are working on their succession. Their styles may no longer be fashionable in some cases, but they remain fascinating to me because they bear the unmistakable mark of winemakers who have stayed true to their roots.

Who are the Vassals of Cormons? Franco Toros, Dario Raccaro, Sandro Princic.

What style of wine do the Vassals of Cormons produce? Always distinctive and identity-driven. Rich for Toros, dry for Raccaro, opulent for Princic.

The Heirs

Here, with the generation now in their 40s and 50s, I believe Cormons faces real problems (less so for Collio in general, as areas like Dolegna and San Floriano del Collio have long embraced a more precise and less showy style). Possibly due to rising temperatures, wines are becoming too heavy and unrefined, almost cannonballs lacking in subtlety. It feels as if innovation has stalled, with the Heirs content to mimic the Vassals but without the same success.

Moreover, Collio made a poor decision to focus on Collio Bianco, a blend of native varieties that lacks the specificity of single-site wines, unlike the successful examples set by Mario Zanusso of I Clivi with his Friulanos Galea and Brazan, or Skok with their Friulano Zabura. Also the latest generation of macerated wines (therefore excluding the heretical Oslavia group of Gravner and Radikon) seems more interested in tapping into the natural wine market than in creating wines with the skill and preparation of their renowned neighbors. In short, complex climatic conditions and complacency with past glories are making younger Cormons producers less interesting.

However, one Heir has managed to establish a distinctive style: Roberto Picech (a winery that I’ve visited). Like the Vassals before him, Picech’s wines have an expressive baroque flair, with a mid-palate concentration that adds depth. Picech has also softened the exuberance of his grapes by investing in time. His wines are released a year and a half after harvest, allowing them to gain consistency and linearity.

Picech may be showing the way for the Heirs who prefer expressive wines over site-specificity: careful grape selection, working only at the highest level in the cellar, and being willing to wait before market release. Without such stringent, though economically challenging, approaches, Cormons wines risk falling into anonymity, unworthy of their great past.

Who are the Heirs of Cormons? For good manners, we’ll mention only the best: Roberto Picech.

What style of wine do the Heirs of Cormons produce? Intense, full-bodied, rich.

Malvasia by Roberto Picech – Price and Impressions

I opened two bottles of the 2022 Malvasia on two different occasions, both purchased from the producer for €17.5 and paired with eggplant parmigiana. Here are my impressions:

• First tasting (July 15, 2023):Austere and imposing, Roberto Picech’s Malvasia stands out for its concentration and complexity. Aromas of herbs, wet stone, and apple emerge, with a direct and dry bouquet. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, though the strong alcohol doesn’t always balance perfectly. The high acidity is necessary, offering a pleasant polyphenolic sensation. The long, bitter finish pairs beautifully with the parmigiana, enhancing its bitter notes and creating an intense synergy. A fantastic experience with a perfect food-wine pairing.
• Second tasting (August 4, 2024):
  Despite high expectations, this tasting was slightly disappointing. Aromas of thyme, matchstick reduction, iodine, and yellow flowers were elegant, but the palate was dominated by excessive alcohol, overshadowing many flavors. While acidity and salinity were well integrated, and the finish was long and pleasant, the alcohol felt too overwhelming, making it less compatible with the parmigiana. A wine that shows elegance and class but didn’t fully realize its potential this time.

In summary, Picech’s 2022 Malvasia is a wine of enormous potential but can occasionally suffer from excessive alcohol. In the first tasting, the alcohol was well balanced by acidity and body, while in the second, it disrupted the wine’s harmony. The experience ranged from good to excellent, depending on the bottle. More notes to follow.

For a more peculiar Collio, check out our review of Blanc da Gigi of D’Osvaldo, and for a red Collio read the Pinot Nero vs. Pinot Noir comparison. This lovable place is also mentioned in my review of Selezione Italia. The situation is different when it comes to Ronco del Gelso‘s Isonzo DOC.