Malvasia Collio by Dario Raccaro

We have already discussed the genealogy of the Collio and how the current generation of seventy-year-olds is the last truly great one from that area. Among them is certainly Dario Raccaro, who has made dense-bodied dry wines his signature. Even the Vespa with which he often arrives at the wine shop in Cormons with great fanfare is a recognizable trait of his.

Interesting stories about him can also be found at Lollo’s, in Gorizia.

I went to visit him a year ago: like many of his peers, the tasting also includes a taste of the winemaker’s exuberant personality. After all, an engineer lent to the family business like Raccaro has plenty of stories to tell, and it’s a pleasure to have a chat with him. The production, all of high quality, amounts to 30,000 bottles, with its crown jewels being the Friulano Rolat and, of course, the Malvasia.

Technical Sheet of the Malvasia by Dario Raccaro

The Malvasia grapes come from Raccaro’s historic vineyards, located on the gentle hills at the foot of Mount Quarin, near Cormòns. Some vines, which are up to 50 years old, sink their roots into the flysch of the Collio, a stony soil rich in minerals, ideal for high-quality viticulture. The grapes are harvested at the perfect stage of ripeness to guarantee the maximum expression of the terroir.

The winemaking process follows a meticulous approach: a soft pressing, followed by cold decantation, prepares the must for fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of around 18°C. The wine then rests on fine lees for 6 months, refining its structure and complexity before being bottled and completing its journey with a further aging period in the cellar.

Review of the Malvasia Collio by Raccaro

I had purchased two bottles of the 2022 Malvasia, and the second tasting impressed me more than the first.

Tasting on June 14, 2023

The 2022 Malvasia Raccaro presents itself with a straw-yellow color with greenish reflections, immediately evoking freshness and vitality. On the nose, aromas of white flowers, yellow peach, lavender, bay leaf, and a light hint of pepper emerge. A complex aromatic profile that anticipates the bold character of this wine.

On the palate, the biggest surprise was the concentration of the fruit, higher than I had expected. The body is less oily compared to previous vintages, but the structure is well-present and solid. The floral component and apple notes are also noticeable in the aftertaste. Despite the fullness of the sip, a slight excess of alcohol is noticeable, but it doesn’t compromise the overall enjoyment. The wine is extremely savory, delivering great satisfaction to the palate. The finish is not particularly long in terms of aromatics, but the vibrant acidity, enveloped by the fruit, lingers long on the lips, leaving a pleasant and persistent sensation.

A Malvasia with character, capable of “resetting” the palate after a dish like stewed tuna, cleaning and preparing the mouth for another bite.

Tasting on August 22, 2024

A year later, the 2022 Malvasia Raccaro has evolved and offers a quite different tasting experience, showing its ability to mature in the bottle. The color is straw-yellow, deeper and less bright compared to the first tasting. On the nose, notes of aromatic herbs, white peach, iodine, and magnolia are perceived, giving the wine a fresh and balsamic bouquet, with a certain marine elegance.

Compared to the first tasting, more modest expectations allowed me to appreciate the Malvasia for what it is, without comparisons to other vintages. An additional year of aging has softened the exuberance of the fruit and reduced the alcoholic strength, making the wine more harmonious. The body is light, almost ethereal, while the high and precise acidity dances on the palate, before gently tingling the tongue at the end of each sip. A rather unusual sensation for a Malvasia, whose acidity usually tends to mute after the initial attack.

In the mouth, you can perceive the marine nuances and subtle hints of white flowers, making the sip lively and dynamic. The finish, this time, is surprisingly long, enriched by unexpected notes of toasted hazelnut and aromatic herbs that evolve into a full umami flavor, leaving the mouth “shaken” and supported by a pleasant salinity.

The pairing with grilled salmon was impeccable: the wine perfectly balanced the sweet and smoky notes of the fish, then cleansed the palate with a precise bitterness. A light but characterful Malvasia, capable of surprising and fascinating with every sip.

Final comment: the Malvasia del Collio par excellence. Along with Roberto Picech’s, the best you can find.

Also read our article about the enoteche in Pordenone.