Gemola Vignalta – A Distinguished Chardonnay

I’ve already shared my doubts about natural wines as an orthodoxy, as well as some of the notable exceptions (like Pub Klemo), which unfortunately often prove the rule. What I haven’t yet discussed is the other end of the spectrum: wines that are so polished and processed that they feel almost sterile. Natural wine enthusiasts point to this style as the tyranny of the market, to which their beloved, funky-smelling wines respond with authenticity. Personally, I believe the phenomenon of sterile wines is much smaller than it’s made out to be, but it undeniably exists.

Vignalta, in this sense, bears some responsibility. The winery isn’t enormous: 240,000 bottles produced annually from 33 hectares of estate vineyards and 20 hectares leased. Despite its size, the wine sometimes feels overly constructed.

Yet Vignalta is perhaps the most representative producer in the Padua wine scene. Additionally, the volcanic soil of the Euganean Hills lends itself well to marketing efforts that capitalize on the mystique of volcanoes—thanks to Etna, one might think all you need is a volcano and a vine to produce extraordinary wine. Vignalta doesn’t excessively indulge in this “exaltation of certain rocks”—as we might humorously call the obsession with terroir descriptions found in some circles—perhaps because many of their wines lack a distinctive regional character.

Take, for example, their flagship wine, the Gemola Rosso. It’s an absolutely well-made wine, concentrated, serious, and nimble. Yet it’s a standard Bordeaux-style blend (Merlot and Cabernet Franc) that could be made anywhere. That doesn’t make it less enjoyable—cheers to wines with a familiar identity that still bring pleasure! However, as one of my friends from Padua said, “It’s a bit sad that the best red wine from Padua is a blend we’ve seen before.”

I found the Agno Casto Manzoni Bianco, the Pinot Bianco, and the Riserva adequate but unremarkable.

The Agno Casto is simple, with a good body but a predictable aroma. It doesn’t say much. The Pinot Bianco is well-structured, aiming for tension and elegance, but the fruit concentration felt hollow—perhaps the raw material wasn’t exceptional, leaving the wine as an empty shell. Lastly, the Riserva, almost a second wine compared to the Gemola (though here Cabernet Sauvignon replaces Franc), had an evolved nose that gave me hope, but the palate carried an unpleasant vegetal aftertaste. Something might have gone wrong during production.

“Soulless wines,” you might think. So why did I purchase from this winery? Because at the highly praised Ferronato in Pordenone, I tasted their flagship Chardonnay, which, in a marketing move seemingly aimed at self-sabotage, is also named Gemola. The glass impressed me, so I bought two bottles. One has been opened, and the other is still in the cellar.

Gemola Chardonnay – The Wine

The grapes come from the Baone area in the Euganean Hills. The vines, aged six years, are cultivated on disintegrated volcanic rock soils with a southeast exposure—ideal for optimal ripening. Trained in Guyot, with a planting density of 5,200 plants per hectare, yields are controlled between 65 and 70 quintals per hectare to maximize quality.

The winemaking process includes fermentation and 12 months of aging on the lees in French oak tonneaux, adding complexity and structure while maintaining freshness. Only 6,000 bottles are produced, with an alcohol content of 13.5%.

The 2021 Gemola Chardonnay by Vignalta has a lively straw-yellow color with greenish reflections. On the nose, it offers impressive complexity: initial fresh notes of field herbs, Golden apple, and olive oil evolve into more developed aromas of toasted wood and smoke. There are so many layers! The bouquet transitions from fresher notes to smokier ones as the wine opens up. On the palate, it’s compact and creamy, with a “rectangular” acidity supporting flavors of quince and crushed stone. The finish is so rich it needs to be “unpacked”: powerful oak, followed by intense notes of apple peel, olive brine, rich lime zest, and even field herbs—all amplified by a nearly searing salinity. Wow.

The oak is noticeable but never overbearing, creating a wine that, while not innovative in style, is flawlessly executed. A classic that delivers immense pleasure. Definitely worth repeating, especially with salmon—it paired perfectly, adding an almost caramelized layer to the wine.

I’ll probably revisit it next year. For now, despite the rest of the winery’s production not thrilling me, I would recommend this bottle to anyone who loves classic and elegant Chardonnay.

A more bombastic Chardonnay is the one from Dog Point.