Friulano Zabura by Skok

Grand Cru of Collio

There has been a significant issue in Collio, and the more time passes and the more tastings I experience, the more I realize it: the consortium has persisted in promoting blends of whites, simply labeled as “Collio,” which rarely pay proper homage to this exceptional territory. It would be much better to produce single varietals that faithfully reflect the terroirs and microclimates of the different vineyards. Wines that represent a cru, and fully express the nuances of their place of origin rather than trying to conform to a more standardized vision (an exception to this rule is Roberto Picech, that I have visited).

However, some producers have understood the importance of valorizing individual grape varieties and their respective terroirs. One of these is Ferdinando Zanusso of I Clivi (not coincidentally not native to the area), who with his Brazan and Galea, has been able to explore the different facets of Friulano, enhancing the unique characteristics of each vineyard. Alongside Zanusso (already mentioned in the article about Vecchie Vigne Bianco by Roncus), the Skok brothers have distinguished themselves with their Zabura.

My story with Zabura begins on a sweltering summer evening four years ago, at the now-closed Locanda Dvor in San Floriano. There, I tasted it for the first time as an aperitif. This was followed by a visit to the winery, with Orietta Skok as a truly splendid hostess (Friulian producers often have a warmer hospitality than many others, in my opinion). Several cases of Zabura were also purchased for my wedding, and they made us look great. To this day, I still drink the lively remnants of that 2021 vintage.

But let’s focus on the Skok winery: their Sauvignon can be considered average, the Pinot Grigio Ramato doesn’t particularly stand out, while the Bianco Pear was a wine that impressed me both positively and negatively on two different occasions. The Merlot is a safe and good quality choice, but the undisputed champion of their lineup is the Zabura Friulano.

Zabura Friulano – Skok

The name “Zabura” comes from the Cru where the Tocai Friulano (which history is briefly touched here) plants grow, a term that dates back to ancient maps from the 1700s. The vines grow on Ponca soils, the typical sandstone marl of Collio, with a planting density of 5,500 plants per hectare and an average yield between 55 and 60 quintals per hectare. Harvesting is done by hand, with careful selection of the clusters, and green harvesting is performed before veraison to achieve the right balance between the plant and the clusters. In the cellar, the grapes are destemmed and cold macerated, followed by gentle pressing and static settling to remove impurities. Fermentation takes place with selected yeasts on which the wine is left for six months. Bottling follows the tradition of lunar phases, taking place in spring with the Easter moon, and the wine rests in the cellar for at least a month before being marketed.

In the bottles of the 2021 vintage that I have opened at home – six, over the past two years – Zabura has always presented itself with a fairly intense straw yellow color. Shades ranging from flowers to white peach, from aromatic herbs to cedar and bay leaf emerged. The acidity has always seemed powerful and the bitter finish (the typical almond finish of Friulano), the verticality transfers from the nose to the palate. In various pairings, the wine shows a leading personality, with a structure and acidity that make it capable of supporting even complex dishes. In some cases, the notes of bitter almond were very strong and the aromaticity was dominant, while I noticed concentrated and intense fruit.

Zabura is not the best Friulano I’ve ever tasted (although it’s among the best), but I would recognize it anywhere and I miss it when I haven’t tasted it for a while. It doesn’t have the fruity vivacity of the Friulanis from Cormons, nor the crystalline purity of the best from San Floriano, but it stands out for a dense texture intertwined with bright and fiery aromatic notes. It’s a great protagonist, structured, with intense aromas softened by a thick yet agile body.

In short, it’s a wine not only of the territory, but even of the vineyard. A Friulano that embodies my hope for Collio, not only for the future but already for the present: that the specificities of different sites can be valued, going beyond styles and trends, to multiply the sensations that a wine can and does evoke.

You can find excellent Friulano wines in the wine shops of Pordenone.