This year I attended, for the first time, the events organized by Falstaff in Vienna, and both the Weißweingala and the Schaumweinfestival impressed me positively. Therefore, a visit to the Rotweingala was necessary. And once again I was not disappointed – in fact, perhaps thanks to a better selection of producers tasted, the wines I encountered impressed me even more than on the other two occasions.
The setting was the splendid and by now classic Hofburg. From VieVinum to the events organized by the DACs, the halls of the Imperial Palace always lend a touch of elegance even to the more hectic moments of these events. The number of exhibitors was impressive, a clear sign of the health of Austrian red wines. But not only that: indeed, while local producers exhibited on the main floor, on the lower level one could find Italian reds.
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If I had to be blunt and say which of the two countries won the challenge, I would say Austria. Not that the Italian wines were negligible—quite the opposite, wineries like Tua Rita and Zýmē enriched the event enormously and offered memorable wines. However, Blaufränkisch (because in my opinion this is mainly what we mean when we talk about good Austrian red wine) has a depth and a charm that, in the right hands, make it elegant but not contrived.
It is striking to note how, setting aside for a moment giants like Moric, good producers without necessarily long pedigrees manage to offer wines that are never banal, clear interpreters of terroirs with strong identities. Austrian reds in this sense are very much in line with the zeitgeist, which fortunately wants the focus to be more on the vineyards than on the producer’s hand. The fact that, beyond national borders, Blaufränkisch is still a bit of an outsider certainly benefits its evolution and prevents it from falling into the complacency of some Brunellos that can live off their name alone.
Austrian wine enthusiasts, as always, came prepared for the event, and there was a crowd, though without excess. An honourable mention also goes to the gastronomic offering—an integral part of Falstaff events, which does not focus solely on wine. The proposals were varied and abundant – after all, as we know, red wine wants food.
The Wines of the Falstaff Rotweingala 2025
Italy
Argiano is an excellent representative of Montalcino. The Brunello is a wine full of grace and restraint, almost rarefied in its floral elegance. Vigna del Suolo instead raises the bar with greater depth, between mushrooms, earth, and a complexity that reveals itself over time. Solengo breaks away from the Sangioveses to embrace a more international blend: muscle and dark fruit in the foreground, but never over the top. A coherent line, memorable for its balance.
Tua Rita shows how power can be channelled into balance. Giusto di Notri is a blend with a bloody and spicy streak, deep yet accessible, where dark fruit meets a well-defined Mediterranean imprint. Redigaffi raises the level with an extremely fine tannic texture and an aromatic range that goes from noble wood to incense and smoky nuances. Both intense, yet always with an underlying freshness that keeps everything aligned.
Zýmē, which intrigued me even just for the spelling of the name, offers two very different wines united by a surprising balance. Kairos is a complex blend staging a dense aromatic mosaic, with weight, structure, and soft tannins. A wine that tells each component one step at a time, closing with a clearly perceptible woody note. Amarone instead is a model of harmony: powerful, yes, but never excessive. The sweetness of dried fruit and the balsamic nuances blend into an articulated and coherent drink. Perhaps the best Amarone tasting I can recall.
Vigna Traverso did not particularly fascinate me, despite my fondness for Friulian wines. The Schioppettino di Prepotto has a well-defined juicy and meaty vein, with dark fruit leading the sip to a savoury and earthy finish—no big surprises, but satisfying. Troj is a direct and fruity blend, aiming entirely at a simple, balanced drink without trying to complicate things.
Poggio Antico offers two wines that respect the traditional style but do not leave a profound impression. The Rosso di Montalcino is young and linear, with the typical floral notes and a wild streak that, however, does not leave a mark. The Brunello follows the same register: elegant on the nose, but with fruit that feels diluted.
Travaglini is one of the best-known names of Gattinara. The Gattinara base is a classic Nebbiolo, essential, fresh, with that alpine rusticity made of tiny strawberries. The Riserva adds a spicy touch but remains on the same line. Only with the Vigna Ronchi Riserva does one perceive greater concentration and finesse: the fruit becomes more present, the austerity more elegant.
Austria
Jalits is a name I discovered two years ago thanks to their Diabas, and since then they have never disappointed me. Reserve Szapary is a wine built to be enveloping: full-bodied, spicy, with a velvety finish that confirms the style. Ried Fasching Reserve moves on more restrained and refined tracks, playing on smoky tones and a more vertical texture. With Diabas we return to richness: dark fruit, intensity, and a saline note that brings balance. A full and self-aware expression of Blaufränkisch.
Kopfensteiner also confirmed my previous positive experiences. Ried Szapary is compact, linear, with elegant spiciness and structured tannins. Reihburg is the most expressive and complete of the series: a mix of incense, berries, and smoke, with medium body and a dry, very long finish. Saybritz closes beautifully with a more fruity profile, always dry and finely chiselled. A coherent, sober, and highly classy lineup.
Krutzler stands out for a more rustic and instinctive imprint compared to other interpreters of Eisenberg. Perwolff Blaufränkisch is carnal, wild, with an almost animal touch that makes it fascinating. Eisenberg Blaufränkisch follows the same line, perhaps with a fuller body and a more pronounced earthy sensation. The Merlot surprises for how it manages to fuse varietal softness with the soul of Burgenland: rich, dense, and at the same time vibrant and terroir-driven.
Rosi Schuster offers a lineup of Blaufränkisch with a filigree and luminous character. Müllendorf stands out for its essential elegance—salty, taut, with electric acidity that gives rhythm. The two crus of St. Margarethen – Ried Lamer and Ried Hinkenthal – maintain the same rigour: the first is the deepest and most vertical, with smooth tannins and crystalline purity. The second is more discreet but just as fine, with slender fruit and well-chiselled tannin. A coherent trilogy, full of energy.
Moric needs no introduction: in my experience, they make the best reds in Austria. Prove me wrong. Ried Kirchberg 2023 is a concentrate of precision and dark fruit, perhaps more international but never losing its territorial identity. With Schwemmer 2023 the depth becomes more aromatic, between flowers and black tea, while Ried Maissner 2023 refines everything into elegance and tension: the most austere but also the most refined wine. Finally, Alte Reben 2023 brings everything to another level: intensity, layering, length, and a potential that already seems carved in time.
Anita Nittnaus Hans offers two wines that are not essential. Ried Altenberg Jois Blaufränkisch shows the limits of an overly radical natural-wine approach: disjointed, juicy, with lots of fruit but little direction. More centred is the Comondor, which appears better structured and complete, perhaps thanks to a more marked use of wood.
My Falstaff Rotweingala 2025 Awards
- Best Austrian Red Wine: Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben Blaufränkisch 2023 – Moric
- Best Blaufränkisch: Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben Blaufränkisch 2023 – Moric
- Best Tuscan Wine: Redigaffi Toscana – Tua Rita
- Best Veneto Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella – Zýmē
- Best Montalcino Wine: Vigna del Suolo Brunello di Montalcino – Argiano
- Best Burgenland Wine (Non-Blaufränkisch): Merlot – Krutzler
- Wine That Depressed Me: Ried Altenberg Jois Blaufränkisch – Anita Nittnaus Hans
- Wine From Which I Expected More: Brunello di Montalcino – Poggio Antico
- Best Producer: Moric
- Best Region: Eisenberg DAC
- Major Confirmation: Jalits
If you want to read about Sardinian wines, read our article on Tenuta Asinara, and for Tuscan wines, the one on Podere Ranieri wines.
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The best wines, no boring scores
