Fakin Winery and Istrian wines in general

A period of remote work from Istria offered the opportunity to discover local wines and in particular the Fakin winery. In the winery, good things were tasted, although not exceptional, while the overall experience was disappointing, especially considering the enormous hype surrounding local wines in prestigious publications like Decanter.

The high expectations aroused by the renowned Malvazija Istarska, a variety that I personally appreciate a lot in its Friulian version, made the comparison with the wines tasted even more disappointing. Unfortunately, many wines offered by the glass in the wine shops did not seem particularly different from those of the house that can be found in the many restaurants in the area. This poor quality contributed to the impression of being in a standardized tourist experience. The adoption of the euro as the official currency in Croatia has inflated prices enormously, making the overall experience even more bitter.

The disappointment reached its peak when, despite a previously scheduled appointment, Cantina Collis had the gate closed upon our arrival and, after hours, told us we could come back another day. This episode, unfortunately, seems to be a sad example of how many wineries manage operations primarily aimed at tourism. However, despite this setback, we decided to give Cantina Teraboto a chance, a small reality run by an extremely kind and welcoming lady. Unfortunately, although the hospitality was undoubtedly sincere, the wines offered are not really recommendable.

Fakin wines

Determined not to be discouraged by previous experiences, we went to the Cantina Fakin, which we had heard positive things about. It was a relief to discover that, finally, the wait was rewarded. Without a doubt, Fakin’s wines stood out as some of the best we tasted in Istria. The location is splendid: at the foot of Motovun. And the garden is very pretty.

Here too it is evident that tourists are expected: there is even a menu. Not exactly a MarcoSara experience. We opted for the most extensive tasting: 7 wines at the, very reasonable, price of €20. Fortunately, we were served by an inexperienced but very kind girl, avoiding the more skilled and histrionic colleague. The Balkan note is very evident in the T-shirts with the English pun, of which I could have done without: “Fakin Good Wines,” but so it goes.

Taking a quick look at the wines, about which I don’t know much because not much has been said:

Chamal Brut

A delicate brut with a balance between the weight of Chardonnay and the aromas of Malvazija. Fine and dense perlage. Pleasant and fresh, perfect for an aperitif.

Rosé (Teran)

A rosé that stands out for its freshness and vibrancy even for me, who am not crazy about rosés: truly a pleasant surprise. Notes of grapefruit zest, orange peel, and pomegranate. Pleasantly balanced acidity of Teran that persists until the finish, slightly bitter. A slender, fresh wine with great aromas.

Fakin Malvazija

An extraordinary Malvazija, surely the best tasted in Istria, with notes of acacia flowers, lemon, herbs, and ripe yellow peach. Clean and fresh, but with a significant body, as is customary here. Lively acidity that tickles the palate and a dry, stony finish that reflects the terroir. An authentic expression of the territory.

Pinot Grigio

Simple aromas of apple and dry stones from the local soil. Medium acidity balanced by the fruit. A good wine for an aperitif, clean and fresh.

Chardonnay

Notes of coconut and wood that blend with lemon and apple. Balance between fruit freshness and high acidity, although sometimes the wood is slightly intrusive. Fresh and persistent finish, with well-integrated citrus and wood notes. Truly a nice discovery for me who, perhaps with a bit of Stockholm syndrome, returned to Istrian Chardonnays after a terrible experience years ago with a very woody one from Franc Arman.

Teran

Aromas of dried plum, dark chocolate, and licorice. Robust tannins and lively acidity, with a fresh and persistent finish. It fully expresses the variety and the territory, similar to other Terans of the region.

Il Primo (Teran, but fancy)

A softer version of the previous Teran, with more delicate acidity and tannins. The wood is more evident, but overall less distinctive.

Muškat Žuti

A fresh and slightly sweet muscat wine, with notes of yellow flowers, honey, and citrus. Okay acidity and a dryness that invites another sip. A good interpretation of the grape.

Bottles purchased:

• Chardonnay

Cost: €12

Even at home, the 2022 Chardonnay convinced. Tasted with cow’s milk cheese, it has a golden yellow color and offers aromas of coconut, apple, vanilla, and wood. Despite the wine being tasted in glasses not suitable for aeration, it is confirmed that the wood is handled with great intelligence, providing gravitas without compromising the depth and pleasantly pronounced acidity of the wine. The squared acidity blends well with the sip, resulting in a more intense taste compared to many other Chardonnays. Notes of coconut and wood emerge in the mouth, with a finish linked to the territory – perhaps slightly more monotonous than the tasting in the cellar. The cheese enhanced the freshness of the wine pleasantly.

Istrian wines tasted

Before giving an overview of the idea I got of local wines, here are other glasses and bottles tasted.

Sonata Malvazija (Dobravac)

A fairly drinkable wine with muted aromas and an almost cloudy appearance. Notes of acacia flowers and orange peel. Good balance between body and acidity, but limited complexity.

Malvazija (Franc Arman)

More precise than the previous one, with well-defined perfumes and a steel and vertical character. Clear acidity after the sip, which gives freshness and liveliness to the wine.

Malvazija 2022 (Kozlović)

This Malvazija has a straw-yellow color and offers aromas of acacia flowers, dusty stone, and anise. Although my wife appreciated it, personally I found it not particularly convincing. The aromas are simple and in the mouth the wine shows only a bit of fruit, rather sweet. There is a good balance between sweetness and acidity, but the aromas of Malvazija are monotonous. The acidity is good and well integrated into the fruit, providing depth and aromatic amplitude.

Livio Teran (Benvenuti)

Dense aromas of dried plum, licorice, dark chocolate, and blackberry. Splendid acidity that is felt on the tongue and medium-high tannins. Long and dense finish, with acidity balancing the wine and enhancing its complexity.

Gran Teran (Coronica)

Similar to the previous one in terms of aromas, with a predominance of black plum. Softer than Livio Teran, but also less lively. A different balance that entails a loss of some characteristics, but it still remains a quality wine.

Merlot Superior 2019 (Franc Arman)

Accompanied by a local rib-eye steak (great meat in Istria), this Merlot Superior has a ruby red color and offers aromas of sour cherries, blackberries, and strawberry jam. The nose is interesting and rich, but in the mouth the wine lacks body and has a rather low fruit concentration. The tannins are enveloping and velvety around the lips, with a pleasant acidity. Rustic aromas of osmiza wine emerge. The finish is of black cherry, balanced, and with the meat it has developed the classic sweetness of Merlot.

Istrian wines and grape varieties

As for Malvazija, it is evident that local producers are making an effort to tie the production of local whites to the native grape variety, and this is always positive in my opinion. However, despite all the fanfare, the aromas of local Malvazijas remain surprisingly predictable. While appreciating the dense and aromatic sip, a certain one-dimensionality is noticed compared to sharper and more vertical wines. Climatically, I fear it is more of a necessity than a choice, but apart from Fakin’s, I have not found bottles of the level I think deserve to be purchased – indeed, often bottles around €30 are not substantially different from the house wine offered by restaurants.

In addition to Malvazija, Chardonnay is widespread, but beware of the wood. Only top producers probably know how to handle it. Instead, Pinot Grigio seems to do well as an aperitif, and nothing more is asked of it.

Teran emerges as the red equivalent of Malvazija in terms of the enological identity of the region, but it is a rather difficult grape to handle. Many producers are inclined to round it off in wood, but this risks losing the wine’s typicity. The best examples maintain the powerful acidity and aggressive tannin of Teran (not for nothing the “black-tooth wine” of the Trieste osmize), but manage to tame them without denaturing the original character of the grape. Similarly to its cousin Refosco, Teran must be handled with caution and a capable producer, as always, does more than mere barrel use.

The sweet wine is Muškat Žuti and it seemed interesting to me. Perhaps it could be another avenue to explore for local producers.

Of course, one can discuss Istrian wines at length, but I always think of a conversation I had with the late wife of Sandro Princic. She said they were going on vacation in Istria and I asked her, “What wine do you drink there?” She replied, “We bring our own.”