Doctor Wine in Vienna

At the end of October, there was an event at the Hilton am Stadtpark, partially organized by the talented Christian Bauer and Marina Rebora from Selezione Italia and Barolo & Friends: the exhibition of some of the wines awarded by Doctor Wine. This name didn’t mean much to me at first, but it’s a specialized website that annually publishes a guide to what they believe are the best Italian wines of the year. The logo features the face of Daniele Cernilli, founder of the site: a design reminiscent of Che Guevara, perhaps aiming to make him iconic—though I can’t say for sure.

What Makes a Good Wine Guide?

The event offered complimentary German and Italian versions of the guide. It’s a comprehensive and well-made volume: even the printing is well-executed. It lists the “best” producers by region, and based on my limited knowledge, the bottles mentioned certainly seem worthy of recognition.

Of course, in my opinion, the gold standard for this type of guide is Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book, now edited by Margaret Rand for many years. The key success factor there is not just organizing the chapters by geographic area (this time globally) but also including, in alphabetical order, not only the names of the most deserving producers but also entries for winemaking methods, DOC classifications, and varietals.

For example, in the chapter dedicated to Piedmont, we’ll find Gaja, but also entries for Nebbiolo, Alta Langa, and so on. This way, the reader is immersed in a geographic area and receives references not solely tied to specific producers but encompassing a broader context. Striking a balance between a tourist guide and a phone directory of wineries in a given region is no simple task, but it’s in this complex operation that, in my view, the added value of a wine guide lies.

The Wines of Doctor Wine 2024

Here are the wines tasted at Doctor Wine 2024, organized by producer.

Villa Gemma & Marina Cvetić (Abruzzo)

Masciarelli, with its two flagship brands, Villa Gemma and Marina Cvetić, represents one of the finest examples of winemaking excellence in Abruzzo. I had high expectations for this winery, and indeed, the quality was consistently outstanding in all my tastings.

• Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2023, Villa Gemma
  Fresh notes of lemon, strawberry, and rose petals. On the palate, it comes alive with vibrant acidity and a balanced body. The finish recalls strawberry gelée, with an inviting and lively closure.
• Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2020, Marina Cvetić
  A nose that evokes bell pepper, violets, and blueberries. The sip is elegant and linear, dominated by red fruits, with a beautiful licorice finish adding depth.
• Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2018, Villa Gemma
  The best of the three. Notes of chocolate and a deeply complex nose of bell pepper. Exceptional acidity and licorice on the palate. The granular tannins grip the gums, evolving into a balsamic character with remarkable fruit concentration and a full-bodied structure.

Tramin (Alto Adige)

A benchmark winery from Alto Adige. I had high expectations for this producer, but unfortunately, I was disappointed.

• Glarea Chardonnay 2023
  Aromatic citrus notes of orange and lemon, accompanied by apple and hints of wet stone. The acidity is precise, and the body is interesting thanks to barrel aging, but the aromas are somewhat shy. The finish leans heavily toward apple, making it unbalanced.
• Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2022
  Intense aromas of sweet citrus (kumquat and mandarin), with candied notes and a sip that emphasizes acidity and softness. However, the residual sugar feels a bit intrusive.
• Stoan 2022
  White peach, apple, and wet stone. A white wine that focuses more on body than aroma, remaining muted on the palate.
• Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer 2022
  Lychee, candied citrus, and salted almonds. High density with a perceptible residual sugar that dominates the palate too much.

Abtei Muri & Muri-Gries (Alto Adige)

Abtei Muri & Muri-Gries (Alto Adige)

From this winery, I didn’t expect much, but I was pleasantly surprised, especially by the Pinot Blanc I tasted.

• Weissburgunder Riserva 2021, Abtei Muri
  A Pinot Blanc with character. Notes of wood, white flowers, smoke, and white pepper. Excellent acidity: it teases the palate and expands. Full and intense body with a saline finish. Outstanding.
• Weingarten Klosteranger Lagrein Riserva 2020, Muri-Gries
  A highly appealing nose of violets, roses, ripe plums, cherries, and spices. Smoky and subtle body that only falters slightly in the finish. Splendid acidity and chunky tannins gripping the gums. A rounded finish.

Donnafugata (Sicilia)

Donnafugata (Sicilia)

One of the most iconic names in Sicily, Donnafugata has vineyards scattered across the island and beyond. I was particularly curious to taste Ben Ryé, which I had heard enthusiastic opinions about. Its excellent reputation is fully justified.

• Dolce & Gabbana Rosa 2023
  A pale rosé with copper reflections. A slight hint of blueberries but no real structure: nothing memorable.
• Fragore Etna Rosso 2020
  Here, the presenter (very lively) did an excellent job of describing it. Plum pulp with maritime freshness, young and powerful tannins with a granular texture on the sides of the mouth, and a notable salinity. I find the increasingly popular opinion comparing Etna reds to “Nebbiolo with pulp” quite fitting.
• Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria 2022
  Aromas of the sea, candied fruits, dried flowers, and dried figs. Extremely dense, with flavors of tea and bergamot transitioning into toffee. The acidity barely unfolds before being immediately balanced by a viscous body that is never cloying. Splendid salinity guides the sip with a decisive and lasting impression.

Boschetto Campacci (Tuscany)

A significant portion of the other exhibitors came from Tuscany.

• Ruello Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2021
  Delicate structure. Red fruits, cherry, and wood. A pleasant nose, but the wine lacks density and has low fruit concentration. Chunky tannins grip the gums.
• Ruello Chianti Classico Riserva 2020
  A fine Riserva. Red fruits, plum, and a fleshy profile. Excellent acidity, which sets it apart from the Gran Selezione. Consistently engaging and chunky tannins. The finish is all about the tannins lingering on the palate.

The following four wines are from Tenute Folonari. I had high expectations, but overall, I was left indifferent. Even the exhibitor didn’t seem particularly interested in their own wines.

Tenuta di Nozzole (Tuscany)

La Forra Chianti Classico Riserva 2020
Fruity and with some depth, featuring notes of blackberries and herbs. On the palate, however, the body feels weak. The tannins are coarse and unrefined, gripping the gums roughly.

Tenuta La Fuga (Tuscany)

Brunello di Montalcino 2019
Aromas of earth, blackberries, coffee, and leather. Great aromatic depth, spatial acidity, and a spicy finish. However, the body lacks structure, and the tannins are coarse.

Cabreo (Tuscany)

Il Borgo Toscana 2021
The wine seems like it contains a high percentage of Cabernet Franc (though it does not). Aromas of underbrush, vegetal notes, and red currants. The tannins are powerful, but the fruit concentration feels lacking.

Tenuta Campo al Mare (Bolgheri)

Bolgheri Superiore Baia Al Vento 2021
Aromas of burnt earth, Mediterranean herbs, and plums. The finish is spicy but lacks completeness. While the tannins are excellent, the overall wine feels incomplete.

Paradiso di Cacuci (Tuscany)

Ix Cielo Brunello di Montalcino 2019
Red fruits, plum, and earthy notes, but with low fruit concentration, leaving the wine somewhat lacking in depth and impact.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018
Powerful tannins, but the wine presents as shy in both aroma and intensity, failing to deliver a compelling experience.

Ridolfi (Tuscany)

Brunello di Montalcino 2019
Aromatic and high-toned. Floral scents followed by plum, with a very soft and smooth profile. The tannins are engaging but have an almost imperceptible texture, leaving a clean and polished impression. The standout feature is the nose, which is particularly expressive, delivering a light yet intense and characterful experience.

Falesco (Lazio)

A dynamic winery that often surprises with the quality of its red wines, including this modern yet rounded Syrah.

Tellus Syrah 2023
Tasted at the end of the event. Notes of cherry, forest fruits, and wood. The body is soft, with equally gentle tannins and acidity. Overall, a plush and smooth experience.

Conclusion

In my opinion, the wines presented at the event were generally quite good. However, the extensive Tuscan section offered little to write home about, with most bottles falling into the mid-to-low range of quality for this otherwise splendid region (even when compared to those showcased by Selezione Italia XXVIII). The other exhibitors performed better overall, and the undeniable highlight of the day was the Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria 2022, a truly exceptional wine.

• Best Wine of the Day: Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria 2022

The same organizers gave life to Selezione Italia XXIX.