Crémant de Limoux Rosé and more

A semi alternative to Champagne

Champagne is loved and not discussed. Even Champagne prices shouldn’t be too much of a discussion. But that doesn’t mean we always want to shell out the amounts Champagne often requires. That’s why Crémant is receiving increasing attention.

A great example of this is Crémant de Limoux, produced in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in southern France. The region has transitioned from being primarily known for mass wine production to becoming renowned for the quality of its wines. In the past, the area was often associated with the production of cheap and low-quality wines, mainly intended for local consumption or blending. However, in recent decades, there has been a notable shift in producers’ mindset and an impressive growth in the production of high-quality wines. And, as always, where there’s a lot of wine, there are also good value-for-money options. And that’s already a good reason to be interested in these products.

However, Crémant de Limoux is by no means a newcomer. In 1531, the monks of the Saint-Hilaire Abbey near Limoux produced their first sparkling white wine (preceding Champagne? Let’s not delve into that question). This wine is considered the precursor to the current crémant, later protected by an AOC (controlled designation of origin) in 1990.

The Crémant de Limoux region extends along the upper Aude valley, surrounded by the Chalabrais plateau to the west and Lacamp to the east, with an appellation area involving 41 municipalities. The soils are light and gravelly clay-limestone, while the climate is decidedly Mediterranean, with hot and dry summers, mild and low-rainfall winters, frequent winds, and rare snowfalls. Temperatures rarely drop below zero, and mild autumns and springs see very little rain. In short, don’t expect the vibrant acidity of Champagne but rather softer sensations, often less defined.

Crémant de Limoux is mainly composed of Chardonnay and Chenin grapes (whose chalky sensation somehow mimics that of Champagne), with Mauzac and Pinot as accessory grape varieties. This sparkling wine is produced using the traditional method and differs from Blanquette (also very trendy lately and another classic method, but easier) in the grape blend and aging period on lees.

Now, let’s get things straight: the title of the article is almost clickbait. Crèmant de Limoux is not a complete alternative to Champagne but rather a partial one.

Because Champagne:

• Can boast fantastic acidity, which Crèmant de Limoux rarely has.
• Leaves a chalky and dry sensation on the palate, only sometimes hinted at by Crèmant de Limoux’s Chenin.
• Is suitable for multiple pairings; Crémant de Limoux is more one-dimensional.

Yet Crèmant de Limoux, when placed in the right setting, manages to provide a complete and satisfying experience. The difference is that Crèmant, being often more limited as a wine, needs to be reasoned in its placement, whereas Champagne, being Champagne, fits well even while brushing your teeth.

Lately, I’ve tasted two Crèmant de Limoux: one white and one rosé. The price was similar (around €16 from the producer and 10€ more in the shop where I also bought the Blanc da Gigi of D’Osvaldo and the great qualit-price ratio Champagne Colette & Gaston), but in one case, I hit the mark with the occasion, and in the other, I didn’t. I experienced firsthand both the strengths and limitations of the wines and my judgment in serving them.

An 825 Crémant de Limoux Brut 2021 – Gérard Bertrand

The wine is produced using Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir grapes. Gérard Bertrand is a symbolic and massive producer in Languedoc, a rugby player who took over the reins of the company after his father’s death and built an empire (and we could talk for hours about his Grand Vin Rouge La Clape du Château l’Hospitalet). The website offers a seamless purchasing experience, only marred by the final banner that shouted at me that I, yes, I, had access to an additional discount if I added a few more bottles to my cart. A bit of a wine Amazon.

Returning to the wine, the grapes are harvested manually in advance to preserve a good level of acidity (which, as mentioned, can be the Achilles’ heel of these wines). Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes are immediately pressed in a pneumatic press. The must is transferred to tanks for alcoholic fermentation, using the same process as white vinifications. The wine is then transferred to sealed bottles for fermentation, following the traditional method. Finally, after disgorging, dosage is carried out.

I used this wine as an aperitif and a dinner companion, successfully pairing it with fried rice with shrimp. It has a golden yellow color and offers an aromatic bouquet composed of notes of vanilla, yogurt, yeast, croissant, wet stone, and white peach. Its effervescence is excellent, fine, and light, almost ethereal. It has good minerality but could benefit from more acidity. The body is rather dense, with hints of apple, pear, and salted caramel. The characteristic chalky coating of Chenin is noticeable. The finish is fresh and pleasant, quite rounded despite leaning slightly towards yogurt. A delicate wine perfectly balanced, which cleansed the palate well after each bite. The value for money is excellent.

In short, here the Crèmant de Limoux did what I hoped it would: gracefully accompany the beginning of the evening, without ever unbalancing the tastes and atmosphere. I didn’t miss Champagne.

For other wines by Gerard Bertrand, refer to this article.

Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé N.V. – Domaine B&B Bouché

The Bouché family curiously comes from Champagne. In 1920, patriarch Abel Bouché began cultivating just one hectare in Champagne (a small area!). In search of new vineyards from which to obtain wine, the family began looking for new terroirs. They decided to settle in Digne d’Aval, in the Limoux region. Today, the company has 40 hectares of vineyards, and the fourth generation is at the helm.

The cuvée (remember, it’s a rosé) is selected from vineyards with very low yields. The vineyards are spread across five municipalities of Limoux: on one side, on clay-limestone slopes facing north-northwest, and on the other, on southern slopes or gravelly plateaus. The blend includes 50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 20% Chenin.

The wine has a pink gold color and offers an aromatic bouquet characterized by croissant, sweet spices, lemon, and raspberries. It’s an uncompromising wine that wants to show character at the expense of a certain finesse. The effervescence is tiny and rather sparse but frothy, in line with the style. The acidity is just sufficient, and the sip doesn’t leave a particularly dry or salty sensation in the mouth, but the croissant, a hint of wild strawberry, and a prominent note of strawberry liqueur emerge clearly. Undoubtedly opulent, it aims to emphasize its power. The finish is of medium length with notes of raspberry seeds soaked in their juice and still the liqueur that dominates all the other nuances of this otherwise absolutely pleasant and complex wine, which I drank as an aperitif one afternoon during a spa stay.

You see, I preferred the Crèmant de Limoux from Gérard Bertrand, but it’s because I experienced firsthand the limitations of the rosé from Domaine B&B Bouché. If instead of having it as an aperitif on an empty stomach, I had it during a brunch, perhaps with toast, butter, and salmon, I would have had fatty food to balance the wine’s power. It was an execution mistake, and yes, Crèmant de Limoux is a tool that forgives fewer mistakes than Champagne, but its price allows for a few misses.

For a French sparkling that I liked more than these two wines, check out my review of Coeur de Chardonnay of Domaine Rolet.