Collio vs Colli Orientali del Friuli

I am Friulian and in Friuli I started tasting wine. For years I thought it was inevitable to fall in love with it, given the quality of the local bottles – today I think that, notwithstanding a qualitative level that is often excellent, the passion for wine would have blossomed in almost any other wine region. Be that as it may, Friuli has eleven between DOC and DOCG and some are very interesting. Here we compare the two most significant: the almost homonymous Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli.

The Characteristics of Collio

Collio is a “small” denomination also physically: a hilly strip of the province of Gorizia, narrow between the Isonzo to the east and the Judrio to the west, with Slovenia a stone’s throw away and the Isonzo plain that closes it to the south. This compressed geography translates into a very readable identity: hills in an east–west sequence, exposures often fortunate, relatively contained altitudes (about 60–270 m). Precisely because it is a handkerchief of land, this DOC cannot expand, and the brand thanks it.

The protagonist here is the soil: ponca, that mix of marls and sandstones which in fact is also called Flysch di Cormons. These are friable, stratified rocks, very light when they outcrop and immediately “identifiable” even by laypeople. The rocks were deposited in marine environments and therefore at times host small fossils, a geological reminder of the fact that here, before the vineyards, there was something else.

As we were saying, this geographic compactness also becomes a reputation advantage: Collio includes about 1,500 hectares of vineyard and it is not a territory that can grow “by volume” without becoming denatured. In other words: quality is helped by the fact that space is limited, and the impossibility of expanding becomes good news for the brand. The DOC then from a geological point of view continues into the Brda, its Slovenian part, but in most cases winegrowers and institutions remain proudly separate.

The Wines of Collio

In Collio the wines have a very clear hierarchy: whites are the gravitational center (and the denomination codifies them as identity typologies), while reds more often remain within the fence of internationals and blends. The core of the offering is the native triumvirate — Ribolla Gialla, Friulano (ex Tocai), Malvasia Istriana — three very different personalities which, precisely here, find their most convincing interpretations. Then come the “global” grapes, some perfectly at ease, others less necessary in an area that is already rich.

• Ribolla Gialla: often “simple” and, as Marco Sara used to say, even undecided about where it wants to go (fresh? aged in wood? macerated? sparkling?), but at times expressed in an engaging and complex way; a depressed queen who, when in a good mood, enchants. If you are curious about what drives its price and how it compares across the border, Ribolla Gialla and Its Price breaks down the economics and the styles in detail.
• Friulano (ex Tocai): the overbearing king; great character, herbaceous and gastronomic, and that final signature of bitter almond that closes the sip with authority.
• Malvasia Istriana: the duchess who arrives from outside the realm, with aromas of sea and aromatic herbs; and yes, here it is often more centered and interesting than in Istria, more taut and less obvious – my Istrian friends will forgive me, but it is better to drink Malvasia in Cormons than in Rovinj.
• Pinot Bianco: here it works well also because it is a grape that “lets itself be done”, it imposes nothing and returns clean, coherent whites.
• Sauvignon Blanc: lively like many other Sauvignons, certainly, but often very green and with a typical and recognizable tomato-leaf character, which personally I find very fun.
• Chardonnay: the least sensible one, because it is a variety extremely capable of translating great terroirs, but this work in Collio is already carried out in a unique way by the native triumvirate—and Chardonnay ends up becoming irrelevant.
• Pinot Grigio: it is not omnipresent, but when it is there it is often solid, centered, with character.
• Collio Bianco (blend): a terrible idea of a local blend derived from the native varieties, which almost always results in bottles without identity; it would have been more sensible to push more on single vineyard differences, as a good part of the world does and as it happens in the Slovenian part of the border, which in fact has in many ways overtaken its Italian cousins.
• Reds: largely international and often set on Bordeaux/blend logics. Merlot is the most successful one: not an absolute “great”, but a happy jester, playful, with a recognizable local character that amuses.

My Impressions of Collio Wines

In my opinion, when Collio wines work they do so because they keep perfume and structure together without yielding either to softness or to aromatic exhibition. In my impressions, acidity, sapidity and verticality continually recur as the architrave of the sip: I love these wines when precise, sculpted, clean, capable of a direct sip with a long and taut finish. Wines composed but incisive, with that vegetal-citrus register (tomato leaf, grapefruit, aromatic herbs, white flowers) that never becomes “shouted”, but remains composed and dignified.

The best bottles embody precisely this balance: Carlo di Pradis’s Sauvignon is precise and sculpted with great acidity and sapidity; and Renzo Sgubin’s Friulano convinces me because, even starting from a vegetal stamp, it widens the bouquet and then ties an airy body to a persistent finish, with that idea of “craftsmanship of perfume” so frequent among the many good and small local producers. Even when there is wood, I accept it (indeed, I appreciate it) only if it is integrated and serves to give shape as in Picech’s Ruben Riserva, where I find depth, humidity, seriousness of the nose and a gustatory progression that does not deflate.

On the contrary, when Collio disappoints me, it is almost always for the same reason: the backbone is missing, or it is covered or cancelled out. At times one encounters wines flat, too soft, short, or made caricatural by an excessive use of the barrel. Even macerations convince me only if they do not switch off the wine’s energy.

In summary: my ideal Collio is a white of depth and tension, more “architectural” than decorative—chiseled aromas, yes, but above all a nervy, savory, vertical sip, with wood possibly present but disciplined. When I find that combination, I discover elegance, cleanliness, precision, persistence.

The Characteristics of the Colli Orientali del Friuli

The Colli Orientali are located to the north-west, Collio to the south-east. The Colli Orientali del Friuli are “over the ridge” compared to Collio: if the latter is the Gorizian hilly tongue, narrow and exclusive, the former open up into the central-eastern hilly belt of the province of Udine, still close to the Slovenian border, and they have a broader and less monolithic imprint.

Here too there is ponca: an alternation of marls (calcareous clays) and sandstones (calcified sands), highly recognizable and for this reason almost “branded” as in Collio; however the Colli Orientali are much less homogeneous from a geological point of view, and this greater diversity can make them seem like a diluted version of the famous neighbor. The morphology is often gentler (also because of the erodibility of the marls), with generally contained altitudes and a tradition of terracing born to slow down erosion: more hilly continuity, fewer dramatic landscapes.

And then there are the dimensions: Collio covers about 1,500 hectares of vineyards, while the DOC Friuli Colli Orientali exceeds 2,000—in short, bigger, more spread out, and inevitably more variable. In this mosaic, Cividale del Friuli functions as the natural center of gravity (as well as historical and cultural) of the area, just as happens for Cormons and the Collio area.

The Wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli

• Whites (native and international): I’ll say it directly, the whites of the Colli Orientali are often not very recognizable, the flat version of what Collio knows how to do better, with less nerve and less identity. And yet on paper there is everything (Friulano, Ribolla, Malvasia, Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco/Grigio, Chardonnay etc.), but the terroir does not allow the peaks reached by the neighbors.
• Reds: the DOC finds its reason for being in reds with edge and personality. The “official” list is broad (Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Schioppettino, Pignolo, Tazzelenghe, plus several internationals), and in fact the zone also has subzones dedicated to particular varieties (e.g. Schioppettino di Prepotto, Refosco di Faedis, Pignolo di Rosazzo).
  • Refosco: it is the “company” wine, the paradigm of local reds, the tai, that is, glasses to drink with a snack and a couple of chats — an Austro-Habsburg tapas, so to speak. Not noble, but alive and with that slightly wild vein that invites the sip.
  • Pignolo: it is the “aristocratic” red of the denomination, often muscular and made to last, but complicated both in the cellar and in the vineyard (the name, that in Italian means “fussy”, is not accidental). A severe wine and difficult on more than one front.
  • Tazzelenghe: rare and menacing, it is the one that puts you to the test—the name comes from the local dialect and can be translated as tongue-cutter and an encounter with its tannins explains why.
  • Schioppettino: almost extinct and then brought back to life in the ’70s and ’80s, it is the most “sexy” identity red of the area, with its spiciness that always divides winegrowers between those who want it from barrel and those who want it playful and fresh. The pepperiness derives from rotundone, the compound associated with pepper notes in different varieties (Syrah and Grüner Veltliner included).
• DOCG of sweet wines: Ramandolo and above all Picolit: here they play heavy. The Consorzio puts them in the front row, and it makes sense: they are the wines that more than any others pull the zone out of the direct comparison with Collio and bring it onto terrain entirely its own, that of the great Italian sweet wines—with Picolit putting itself forward for the gold medal at national level in the category.

My Impressions of the Wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli

In the Colli Orientali I am attracted to reds more spicy and wild than sweet and polished, with an aromatic profile that often returns to pepper, undergrowth, herbs, berries and an almost ferrous and fleshy vein. Schioppettino is the pillar that holds everything up: I love it when it knows how to be nervy, deep and for the table, capable of keeping company with food without becoming heavy. Even when I find it intense or powerful, it fascinates me only if then in the mouth there is drive, not only fabric.

On the palate the key that returns is the same that makes me love other terroirs: structural energy (acidity that supports) and body (solid tannin, not astringent). In the best Schioppettinos—like the one of I Clivi (which I find fresh and engaging) or some Ronco Severo—I like it when the drinkability remains vibrant, with a savory finish and a gustatory progression that evolves instead of widening and then dying out. And when I meet Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, I like it adult: I appreciate it when that natural rusticity is channeled into an austere but composed sip, with dark fruit and a controlled green note.

The dividing line, when something doesn’t convince me, is almost always the same: wood and/or excess ripeness that mute the variety and gum up the rhythm. In those cases the wine can have body, it can have broad aromas, but it loses identity and precision. That’s why, even in important or evolved labels (e.g. Le Vigne di Zamò – Rosazzo Ronco dei Roseti 2006, or certain Schioppettino more marked by time and ageing), I reward above all those that, beyond complexity, preserve clarity, tension and a clean close. In essence: in the Colli Orientali I look for reds spicy, dark, vertical, with lively tannin and carrying acidity; and I reject everything that “makes up” this nature with sweetness, dominant oak or roundness for its own sake.

Colli Orientali vs Collio

I cannot resist comparing two bottles from the two zones; both partially disappointed me: one from a technical point of view (Jelka) and one because of my expectations (Schioppettino).

Jelka Bianco 2019 (Picech Roberto) is a wine that makes you get angry by subtraction. The nose is not very expressive, but it is also elegant: autumn leaves, vanilla, mandarin zest, dried fruit. Then on the palate it “disappears”: few contours, a faint pear note, and the rest is almost only texture — a “whipped dream”, spectacular body, but not supported by content. The best part comes at the end: a powerful sapidity in closure, a savory-hazelnut return, and with cured meats it becomes functional—almost instrumental to the dish. It is a wine that works better than it speaks.

Schioppettino 2022 (Marco Sara), instead, disappointed me for the opposite reason: it speaks a lot, but says little. The nose is wide and dominant with black pepper, then blackberry and acetone: all rather direct. But in the mouth it lacks verticality: low acidity, light and velvety tannin in the middle of the palate, and above all that sensation of imprecision that leaves you without coordinates. Still, even here there was a partial redemption: the finish, initially a bit astringent and slightly unripe, lengthens and changes gear—from pepper to blackberry—gaining depth and length, with that classic spiciness finally interacting with the fruit. With carne asada you notice the excellent drinkability, even if it struggles to stand up to the dish.

If I put them head to head: Jelka is a wine with a body but without a voice; Schioppettino is a voice without precision. The first leaves you with a sense of “missed opportunity” because there was structure (texture and sapidity) but content was missing; the second leaves you frustrated because there was varietal profile, but then precision was missing—the one that makes it territory and not only variety. And interestingly, both work better with food than alone: Jelka as an amplifier of the dish that then resets the mouth; Schioppettino as a grill companion that, with time, earns forgiveness.

The most revealing note is that neither of the two really delivered that sense of terroir that I am looking for: one because it is empty, the other because it is out of focus. Two okay wines, but not at all memorable.

What to Look for in Collio

• Tension and sapidity: in Collio I often find fruit that is present but not the protagonist, with structured wines and dry, savory closures. Here ponca plays a prominent and crucial role.
• The native triumvirate: Ribolla/Friulano/Malvasia are expressed at their maximum here.
• Consistency: being small, this DOC tends to maintain high quality. It is the safe bet.

What to Look for in Colli Orientali del Friuli

• Native reds with character: the denomination becomes truly interesting when it stops chasing whites and focuses on its reds: Refosco, Schioppettino, Pignolo, Tazzelenghe. Riskier wines, but more identity-driven.
• Sweet DOCGs: if we are talking about certainties, Ramandolo and above all Picolit are why the zone matters from an oenological point of view. Real heritage wines.
• Careful selection: in the Colli Orientali I look for specific bottles and estates more than “the denomination as a whole”, because dispersion is part of the game.

Collio vs Colli Orientali: Why I Almost Always Choose Collio

Collio convinces me more because it is more compact and more reliable in average quality. The Colli Orientali are larger and more variable, and the fact that many producers are also and above all agriturismi increases the variability—you can find excellent things, but also wines that feel more like “side dishes”, less centered. Therefore my strategy is: for whites and for quality I bet on Collio, while in the Colli Orientali I aim above all at native reds and at the sweet wines (Picolit/Ramandolo), where there are more certainties and where the territory has a clearer identity.

An Itinerary in Collio and Colli Orientali

Let’s close with an itinerary in Collio and Colli Orientali, two beautiful areas that can also attract those who are not wine-obsessed. The territory is quickly becoming more “touristified”, so the sooner you go, the more likely you are not to feel like just another passing tourist.

Day 1 — “Classic” Collio: Cormons, Capriva, Spessa, Monte Quarin

09:00 – 11:00 | Base in Cormons

• Arrival and walk in the center: Cormons is the “logistical capital” of Collio, perfect to orient yourself and understand the territory.
• A stop at the Enoteca Comunale is mandatory: a didactic place to understand Cormons and its wines.

11:30 – 13:00 | Scenic loop Capriva → Castello di Spessa

• First ride among hills and vineyards (also by bicycle, if you feel like it): the Giro del Collio passes right through Capriva – Castello di Spessa – Cormons.
• Castello di Spessa is a natural stop inside the landscape; the estate produces interesting wines. The tasting is a bit anonymous, but the product is worth it.

13:00 – 15:00 | Slow lunch (Mitteleuropean)

• Here it makes sense to eat “border cuisine”: local food is a Friulian/Slovenian/Austrian mix, with substantial dishes and slow rhythms.

15:30 – 18:30 | Monte Quarin + sunset

• Climb / viewpoint at Monte Quarin, from which on clear days you can see the sea.
• Then descend back to Cormons for another stop at the Enoteca—it is worth it.

Day 2 — “Border” Collio: Gorizia, Oslavia, San Floriano, Plessiva

09:00 – 13:00 | Gorizia

• Gorizia is a pleasant small city and a walk in the center is absolutely worth it. It is not difficult to find good places for an aperitif and a light lunch.

13:00 – 14:30 | Oslavia

• Up to Oslavia and visit to the monumental Ossuary, inevitable: a stone’s throw from Gravner, it says a lot about those who built it as well as what it commemorates.

15:00 – 17:00 | San Floriano del Collio: the balcony

• San Floriano is one of the most scenic points: the belvedere square, the panorama over Collio and Slovenian Brda, and the descent among hairpins and vines.
• If you like walking: even only 30–45 minutes on foot among white roads and rows is fascinating at this hour.

17:15 – 19:00 | Plessiva: woods and decompression

• Close with the Bosco di Plessiva, an equipped park with paths.

Day 3 — Colli Orientali: Cividale, Valli del Natisone, Prepotto, Rosazzo

09:00 – 11:00 | Cividale del Friuli

• The Colli Orientali “start” here: it is explicitly indicated as the heart of the zone and an ideal base for itineraries that radiate out.
• Walk the historic center or at least stop at a wine bar/enoteca.

11:15 – 13:30 | Valli del Natisone: a wild detour

• Behind Cividale there are the Valli del Natisone: woods, villages, and in summer a swim in the river.

13:30 – 15:00 | “Colli Orientali” lunch

• Frico, cjarsons, musetto e brovada, gubana. A shame to miss them.

15:15 – 18:00 | Prepotto: views and wineries

• Choose a winery and visit it. As always, it is better to call before showing up.

18:15 – 19:30 | Rosazzo: abbey and vineyards

• Sunset at the abbey of Rosazzo, which with its fantastic belvedere is central to local wine history—since it was precisely from the Benedictine monks that Livio Felluga first asked to rent his vineyards.

From Collio the orange revolution started, which I don’t love, but some natural wines are worth it.