Coup de Cœur for the Cœur de Chardonnay

A bottle of Cœur de Chardonnay

When it comes to bubbles, France is France. Good sparkling wines are made in various wine regions around the world, but the concentration of quality bubbles found in France sets the benchmark. Champagne (like the great quality-price ratio one by Colette & Gaston), of course, but also Crémant de Loire, Crémant d’Alsace, and the lesser-known yet remarkable Crémant du Jura.

What is Crémant du Jura?

Crémant du Jura is a pillar of production in this region bordering Switzerland. Recognized as an AOC since 1995, this designation is connected to other renowned appellations in the area (Côtes du Jura, Arbois, Château-Chalon, and Étoile). This Crémant is primarily a white wine (Chardonnay), sometimes blended with pinot noir and the local trousseau variety. Trousseau, along with poulsard, also appears in the 10% of production that is rosé.

In total, Crémant du Jura covers 515 hectares and involves 450 producers. While it doesn’t occupy vast surfaces in absolute terms, many small and medium-sized companies produce their own versions of it.

Domaine Rolet’s Cœur de Chardonnay

100% Chardonnay, as the name suggests. The vineyards from which the grapes originate are located in the prestigious AOCs of Arbois and Côtes du Jura. The bunches, rigorously hand-harvested, are pressed whole.

Vinification includes a second fermentation in the bottle, followed by a minimum aging period of 36 months. No reserve is used, so we’re talking about vintage wines. It should be served at around 8°C and pairs well with meals.

Review of Cœur de Chardonnay

I discovered Domaine Rolet a few years ago in a wine shop in Pordenone – no, not Ferronato, but Il Molo, also mentioned in our ranking of the enoteche of Pordenone. We loved the Crémant du Jura Blanc Brut, so I proceeded with the purchase. Wanting to expand the order with a few bottles I hadn’t tried yet, I also bought two Cœur de Chardonnay 2018. It was a very bubbly purchase, a reasonable choice considering Jura is somewhat of an indie wine paradise, with vin jaunes, vins de paille, and light reds that don’t quite suit my taste.

The first bottle, enjoyed in 2022, struck me as exceptional with an exclamation point. With its golden yellow color, this sparkling wine fascinated me with its aromatic profile, rich in apple, toasted notes, and bread crust. The full, silky body was extremely elegant, expanding horizontally in the mouth, and the acidity was just enough to keep it from feeling flat. The mousse was extremely persistent and fine, almost microscopic, yet dense, dense, dense. A true wave of silk that overwhelmed the palate. The nose was also excellent, with fruit scents leaving ample room for classic yeast aromas without being too crisp or primary. The real magic, as mentioned, happened on the palate. The luxurious pairing with Greek cheeses and cured meats was splendid.

Flash forward two years, and I expected this wine to impact me less on the second experience. Not because the bottle had lost quality over time, but because with years and tastings, the palate evolves and becomes more demanding. The upside is that we better understand what we like; the downside is that often what impressed us in the past leaves us less wowed.

Indeed, the Cœur de Chardonnay I drank this year struck me a little less, but I still found it an exceptional wine. I wouldn’t have been surprised if my final impression was of a very good or even just good wine, but no, we’re still in the realm of excellence. Wow!

The nose offers both crisp notes (apple and pear) and yeasty ones (dough), showing how far they can go when well-balanced. On the palate, the mousse is wide, foamy, concentrated, and light. It’s like drinking a cloud that leaves behind a polyphenolic trail. The palate reveals hints of cinnamon, and the sip is perfectly linear, as Chardonnay should be. The direction is clear, making this wine hedonistic, never opulent, and always elegant. It struts quickly on the catwalk but with a flowing, feather-light dress – a success! The finish is a firework display, with a mature and defined Asian pear note that explodes in the mouth, tempered by a subtle chalky cage and delightful acidity. Once again, the fruity and more austere notes complement each other perfectly. The finish isn’t long, but it’s thoroughly pleasant. Unexpectedly, the moules frites I had prepared and the wine remained completely indifferent to each other.

In summary, here’s why I believe Cœur de Chardonnay is the best Crémant du Jura:

• Silky body
• Fine, concentrated, and foamy mousse
• Excellent acidity and sense of direction
• Fascinating contrast between fruity and more evolved notes

Here you find a comparison between Prosecco and Brut, and also one between Ferrari and Franciacorta.