Today, when one thinks of a good Chardonnay, trends (in my opinion, justified) dictate that it should be a sharp, precise wine, not overly influenced by oak. All of this is correct. However, there are also Chardonnays that, without going overboard in bombast, find a balance between the current standard and less refined expressions (like the Gemola by Vignalta).
This is especially true for wines from the New World, which gained visibility in past decades precisely due to the trend of “powerful Chards” (one day, someone should write an article about how sad it is to shorten Chardonnay to Chard). At MondoVino 2023, I encountered the one produced by Dog Point (New Zealand), and I liked it so much that I bought a bottle. But let’s take a step back and do a brief overview of New Zealand Chardonnays.
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New Zealand Chardonnays
New Zealand is often associated mainly with its blockbuster, Sauvignon Blanc. However, in my opinion, the country’s best white wines are its Chardonnays. While Sauvignon Blanc has established itself as a refreshing and immediate wine, local Chardonnays are more refined, often in perfect balance. Sometimes austere and vibrant, but also opulent and complex depending on the producer, yet frequently very well-crafted.
What Are the Key Ingredients of New Zealand Chardonnay?
First and foremost, the terroir, which combines:
- Cool and breezy climate, ideal for preserving the grape’s natural acidity.
- Varied soils, from the gravel of Hawke’s Bay to the clay-rich terrain of Gisborne, offering diverse interpretations of the grape variety.
Key Chardonnay Regions in New Zealand
📍 Marlborough
The undisputed queen of Sauvignon Blanc, this region also produces exceptional Chardonnays. Here, citrus and stone fruit notes dominate, with a sharp edge and a very controlled use of oak. The result is elegant and taut wines.
📍 Hawke’s Bay
The heart of New Zealand’s red wine production but also one of the best areas for Chardonnay. Here, you’ll find more structured and complex examples, with profiles dominated by peach, melon, and ripe citrus, often featuring a creamy texture and nuances of hazelnut and brioche due to barrel fermentation and malolactic conversion.
📍 Gisborne
This relatively warm region is home to the most generous and opulent Chardonnays, with intense notes of pineapple, mango, and melted butter. Perfect for those who love a round and enveloping style with a tropical touch.
📍 Central Otago
Best known for Pinot Noir, Central Otago is emerging as a land for Chardonnays with great tension and finesse, featuring sharp, fresh, and mineral profiles, often vinified with little to no oak to enhance their pure expression.
Style and Trends
As elsewhere in the world, the following trends are also in vogue in New Zealand:
- Greater focus on freshness and finesse, with less oak use and more emphasis on terroir expression.
- Growing interest in spontaneous fermentation techniques and aging on lees, to add texture and complexity.
- The rise of single-vineyard productions, showcasing the ambition to elevate Chardonnay to a high-end and age-worthy wine.
Chardonnay Dog Point – Review
Chardonnay Dog Point 2020
My first experience with Dog Point Chardonnay was with a tasting of the 2020 vintage. At the time, I was struck by the wine’s freshness and roundness, supported by splendid acidity. I detected vanilla aromas (never shy with oak at Dog Point—despite the vineyards being in cool Marlborough), as well as lime peel.
Chardonnay Dog Point 2021
The following year’s tasting impressed me slightly less, but it was still a classic great Chardonnay. Still fresh and powerful, dominated by a sharp acidity. There was plenty of oak, but beautifully integrated, with aromas of lemon and mandarin.
Even the bottle I drank at home seemed of very, very good quality, though not outstanding. The wine had a lovely golden yellow color with straw-like reflections and aromas of lemon, lime, elegant oak toasting, struck match, and cream. The nose was fresh, despite the powerful elements imparted by the oak—a conscious protagonist in this wine. The acidity was adorable, pure, and piercing, guiding the sip with great precision. The body was soft and rich but lacked a bit of tension. The palate was once again dominated by oak, but in a perfectly balanced way. The finish was slightly saline, showcasing all the freshness of lemon sorbet. I found it bold and loud, yet absolutely capable of standing up to the pork I paired it with, and it was actually the perfect companion to a creamy scallop dish.
A powerful wine, made to impress, where alcohol plays a significant role, but without ever losing a good degree of finesse. There is a good concentration of fruit, and the flavors are so vibrant that it becomes quite clear that the winery has followed excellent practices.
Final Thoughts
Dog Point Chardonnay is a wine that ranges from very, very good to exceptional, depending on how well the oak is integrated in the bottle you choose and how much you enjoy it. It is not a shy Chardonnay, quite the opposite, but it never goes overboard, always remaining elegant and balanced. Great for impressing, yet also capable of satisfying the most sophisticated palates.
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