After the Barolo & Friends event, held at the Hotel Regina in Vienna on January 12, I found myself wondering why this tasting feels so successful to me. The exhibition has now reached its third edition (here is the report of the second) and it seems to gain more character and confidence with each year. I came to the conclusion that the key lies in the concept of territorial identity.
A wine event does not necessarily have to be tied to a specific region or denomination (a prime example being Selezione Italia), but it certainly helps. This is because territory — not just understood as terroir — has become one of the great mantras in the world of wine in recent years and beyond. And indeed, having even a basic understanding of a wine’s origin and local characteristics helps us enjoy it more fully.
Newsletter
The best wines, no boring scores
Crossing paths with the group of Piedmontese producers who came to Vienna therefore gave the impression of standing before a cohesive group of winemakers, determined to represent such a prestigious region. Following the common thread of Piedmont certainly helped frame and understand the many fine wines on display. More than ever, this edition of Barolo & Friends offered the opportunity to immerse oneself in a very clearly defined territory.
A note on the trend I observe after these first three years: contrary to what usually happens, this event seems to be moving increasingly toward high and very high-quality producers and wines. Typically, such events include many mediocre wineries that rely on the appeal of a “big name” (the Barolo in the title) to gain visibility, while the heavyweights (for example, the great producers of the Langhe) tend to stay away, understandably hesitant to mix their wines with others lacking pedigree.
Over the years, however, Barolo & Friends has brought more and more top-tier producers to Vienna (this year, 52% of the wines I tasted were Barolos, compared to 33% in 2023 — and no, neither then nor now am I particularly fond of Barbera). I don’t know the reasons behind this dynamic, but it is genuinely exciting to see producers of the calibre of Conterno Fantino, Francesco Rinaldi, and Franco Conterno introducing their wines to the Viennese public. On one hand, the presence of so many “noble houses” attracts others of similar standing.
On the other hand, rather than overshadowing producers from less prestigious areas, it enhances them: one cannot live on Barolo alone. And not only for reasons of price, but also because Barolos — and to a slightly lesser extent Barbarescos — are wines that tend to tire the palate. The presence of Barberas and “simple” Nebbiolos helps break up the marathon and, as in the case of the Peiragal from Marchesi di Barolo, can surprise, while also offering a variation on the theme for those who do not love Barolo.
And now, my impressions of the wines of Barolo & Friends 2026
The Wines of Barolo & Friends 2026
Conterno Fantino
The Nebbiolo Langhe Ginestrino 2024 is built on immediate, generous fruit: wild strawberries stand out, with a hint of asphalt in the background. It is soft, medium-bodied, pleasant, and well-balanced. The Barolo Castelletto Vigna Pressenda 2021 already shows greater depth: the asphalt note is more pronounced, the tannins are powdery, and the acidity is crisp and well integrated, giving momentum to the sip.
The Barolo Sorì Ginestra 2021 is a wine of great impact: fleshy and deep, dominated by asphalt, roast notes, roses, and speck. The bouquet is almost intoxicating. On the palate, the cherry is rich and ripe, supported by powerful tannins. The acidity guides the sip with precision, while the powdery tannins assert themselves along the sides of the mouth. The finish is muscular and decisive, closing on orange peel.
Fortemasso
The Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2023 stands out within the lineup for its more convincing fruit profile: red, full, with plum notes. It is soft and well-centered. The Barolo Castelletto 2021, by contrast, appears weak, with insufficient fruit density. The Barolo del Comune di Monforte d’Alba 2021 is slightly more fruit-driven, but still fails to build real depth.
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
The Barolo Le Brunate 2021 is rather simple in structure, with slight reduction and attic-like notes. It remains powerful, however, with a full body. The Barolo Cannubi 2021 moves in more classic and important registers: the finish recalls cola, with acetone notes and a powdery tannin that wraps around the mouth. It is concentrated and full of character.
The Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2019 immediately shows superior complexity: orange peel, chinotto, dried fruit, and a tannin that is still firm and well present around the mouth. It is a classic, structured, and deep wine.
Grasso Fratelli
The Vallegrande Barbaresco 2021 plays on lively, gentle red fruit, with hints of wild strawberries. It is soft and elegant, with violet aromas and a strong sense of harmony. The Giacosa Spessa Barbaresco 2020 is more serious and precise: acetone notes, sandy tannins, overall softness, and hints of leather.
The San Stunet Barbaresco 2016 clearly stands out: it has a powerful aromatic drive, with autumn leaves, acetone, and tar, and a depth that surprises. The nose may still be youthful, but it is already complex, with blackberry jam and licorice. The palate is spicy and fruit-rich, with firm tannins around the mouth and an extremely long finish dominated by persistent spice.
Marchesi Alfieri
The Sostegno Monferrato Rosso, a blend of Barbera and Pinot Noir, does not fully convince. Barbera clearly dominates, with very soft fruit recalling plum or tomato. Salinity is moderate, the finish vinous, with almost no tannins.
The Alfiera Barbera d’Asti Superiore, by contrast, is a declared, full-bodied Barbera: the style leans heavily on chocolatey barrique notes, with a rich, sweet palate reminiscent of sweetened coffee. Spiced chocolate and toffee emerge on the finish, making it more demanding but coherent.
The Costa Quaglia Nebbiolo Terre Alfieri brings the focus back to classic Nebbiolo: garnet color, great complexity, plenty of asphalt, and marked vertical drive. On the palate it is precise and linear, with fine acidity and powdery tannins. Very convincing.
Marchesi di Barolo
The Peiragal Barbera d’Alba 2022 is a soft and well-finished Barbera, with slightly grainy tannins that add structure. Aromas recall ripe, opulent cherry; the sip is juicy yet elegant.
The Michet Nebbiolo d’Alba 2022, despite being an entry-level wine, shows character: anise aromas, powerful tannins, and a structure that exceeds its category. The finish, however, remains vinous and less in line with my personal taste.
The Barolo Tradizione 2020 is a pure expression of classicism, with a clean cola-driven finish. The Sarmassa Barolo 2020 is dominated by orange peel, with an essential but well-executed profile and good elegance.
Franco Conterno
The Barolo Pietrin 2022 departs from the classic canon: it recalls attic notes, but is extremely rich, soft, and enveloping. The aromatic profile is surprising, with notes that reminded me of Collio wines — perhaps gardenia — and a clear autumnal imprint. The tannins are firm and well present.
The Barolo Panerole 2021 remains closed, with attic notes and full body, but without the excitement of other wines from the estate.
The Barolo Bussia Munie Riserva 2019 stands out for aromas of autumn leaves, black tea, and dried cranberries, with a very pleasant overall softness.
Rivetti Massimo
The Avene Heroic Vineyard Langhe Nebbiolo 2023 is the most convincing of the lineup: abundant fruit, a clearly “Nebbiolo-driven” profile, and licorice notes. The tannins are powdery and uncompromising, with a savory, slightly rough finish that pulls no punches.
The Barbaresco 2021 is soft and correct but rather forgettable, with good acidity, balanced tannins, and notes of turned earth.
The Barolo 2020 is closed, with attic and wet earth notes, and medium body.
Azienda Agricola Monchiero
The Nebbiolo Langhe 2023 impresses with its round fruit and expressive clarity: it is very much Nebbiolo and shows evident care even at the entry level, with potential for evolution.
The Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto 2021 is a classic, balanced Barolo, with light tea-leaf notes, elegant and well-measured, without excess, yet very juicy.
The Barolo Montanello 2021, by contrast, feels green, closed, and difficult to read at this stage.
Palladino
The Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2021 is extremely shy and difficult to interpret in the tasting context.
The Barolo Ornato 2021 is more tense and defined, with a green, vegetal character in the best sense of the word, enriched by minty returns.
The Barolo Parafada 2021 shows greater expressiveness: tar, smoke, and depth, with a powerful profile and significant density.
Parusso
The Perarmando Barolo focuses on sweetness and fruit, with blackcurrant at the forefront and an almost candy-like impression. The Barolo Bussia follows a similar line, juicy and soft, but always strongly fruit-driven.
Negro Angelo
The Serra Lupini Roero Arneis does not convince: floral, with hay notes, it remains closed and not very expressive.
The Sette Anni Roero Arneis, on the other hand, is rich and layered, with honey notes, a slightly waxy medium body, and compact structure. Salinity is well present, with oyster-shell nuances.
The Barbaresco Basarin is an easy-drinking, soft Barbaresco with sour cherry notes. The Barolo closes with bark-like notes and a certain rusticity, supported by a full, solid body.
What stood out
- Best Wines: Barolo Sorì Ginestra 2021 by Conterno Fantino and San Stunet Barbaresco 2016 by Grasso Fratelli
- Other Exceptional Wines: Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2019 by Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, and Barolo Pietrin 2022 and Barolo Bussia Munie Riserva 2019, both by Franco Conterno
- Best Producer: Franco Conterno
- Major Confirmations: Franco Conterno and Conterno Fantino
Newsletter
The best wines, no boring scores
